Monday, November 9, 2009

Athens Bouldering Projects

Just like any other climbing area, the Athens Ohio climbing and bouldering scene has its fare share of projects and unrepeated problems. Today we are going to share a few of these projects with you.

Nelsonville Area:

First up. The projects located behind Hocking College, which are located on campus property. Two steep roof lines that lead to easier exit mantels. The one pictured below is a series of overhanging good crimps that lead to a slopey half pad edge crimp crux section. The second is also a steep roof to large sloper rail, that might then yield a dnyo to the finish. For access directions leave a comment with your email address and we will send them to you. Hocking has some minor steps you have to take to climb here.

Next up is the "Arching Nemesis" project at the Land of Super Heros. This small area located in Wayne National Forest near Nelsonville is composed of just two boulders, the Super Hero boulder and the Sidekick Boulder. The the project is on a 20-25 foot tall overhanging arete that leads to a dicy exit onto the Superman Slab. Direction to come in a following post. You can also see it in this video. This area also contains potential for a few one move wonders of lesser quality

Trailer Park:

Tall and Proud, that is the game it these next two projects at the Trailer Park near the Commitment boulder, aka Boulder Cove. First is "Big Mamas" this it the beast of an arete that is featured in climbing magazine.(Justin Roth's) blog. This line climbs the left side of the arete to the top. Good holds lead to balancey and progressively harder climbing. Height, sketchy landing, bad weather and weaksauce have kept this one from being picked.

Next up at the Trailer Park is the Entrance roof located to the left of the trail as you go over the boardwalk just before you get to the commitment area. The "Flux Capacitor Project" climbs straight out the roof on decent holds, establish on the face and climb through crimps and the hold the looks like the flux capacitor from the "Back to the Future" movies. Battle out the slopers, underclings and dirty rock to the top. This is a high ball that see little traffic and is currently dirty.

Another new area at the trailer park is the Lions wall.
This area is mainly slabs until you reach the right most side near the rock house. This section of the wall is less featured and 15-20ft tall with half pad and smaller edges on the slightly overhanging face leading to the top. Not to much effort has been put into these projects, but they will go very soon.


One of the remaining projects at COAD is a roof to overhanging Arete. This one has thwarted many attempts for a while. It is located on the upper tier at COAD. It sits the the left of "Too Small for Paws" and "The Crack". Stand up into a sandy/chossy start that leads to more solid crimps in a horizontal weakness. From the crimps make a dynamic move to the sloper dish, contiune right up the arete to the top, going left to crack system has been done. Sorry can't find any photos at this time.


Witchs has a another tall blank arete that has seen some action. Dubbed the "Nientiendo Thumb Project" is the very first tall arete as you enter the area. Stand or sit and climb the arete. Rumors say that it has almost been sent on multiple ocassions but it still remains virgin.


A low start to Discombobulated remains open too. Same start as Crystal Shard Sit and Emerald and climb left along sloper to linkup with the stand of Discombulated. Not a pure line in its form, but still doable and hard.

This is not a complete list of Athens projects but a taste of what still remains to be sent. Also, sorry the directions are not posted for all of these areas. We are still working on the individual guides to each area. If you need directions in the meantime, leave a comment and we will shoot you back an email.

Now let see some of these projects get sent with these fall temperatures.

Be Safe and Climb Stong!


Levitator said...


Start getting Big Moma's Arete primed. If weather holds, I may be pit-stopping in A-town (on Wednesday) before Thanksgiving. My route strength has been building up all fall, and it is time to close down this project!

dylfoot said...

Consider one less project in Athens County.
One of the moderates up on the hill behind Hocking College went down yesterday. According to Tim when I asked if it went he said, "Kinda."
Conan, Victor and I went up yesterday and gunned for "Arching Nemesis" with no luck, then went to check out the Hole 6 projects behind the school. The moderate was the only one that felt doable for us and with 3 or 4 tries on the bottom we sussed out the over hanging moves to the juggy mantle then the seemingly easy top out revealed itself to be balls hard. A little inspiration from Eric who just happened to be out for a boulder-huntin'-hike and I managed to bag it.
It's still been unrepeated, but I call it: Ace in the Hole V5
See you guys out there

graygirl said...

Coming to Ohio end of July, beginning of August and I'm hoping to climb outdoors despite the heat and humidity. I've never climbed in HH or Athens, and I have no idea where to go. Looking for directions to the spots where I can climb low to the ground, V0 - V3. Thanks! Oh, email addy is

Anonymous said...

Another project that should be good to go this Fall is the "Long Neck Project." It is the sloppy arete just to the right of King Scar. This line is in the V11+ range for sure for it is easily harder than King Scar.

meowmar catdafi. said...

I'm an OU graduate student and I am really interested in boulder climbing-- the only climbing I have been able to do so far is belaying/wall climbing/garage wall climbing. I am anxious to get out and climb in Athens or Hocking Hills. Looking for directions to the spots where I can climb V0 - V3. Thanks! I appreciate your help.

Kev said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Trevor Casserly said...

I realize this is an old post, but I have family in the Hocking area. Would love to know of some info for when I'm in the area visiting, thanks!

Bean said...


I’ll be in town for the Nelsonville music fest and despite the pretty sticky conditions I’d love to check out the overhanging crimp problems you posted photos of! Are they still projects? Thanks so much!