Monday, October 24, 2011

V10 in the House

Athens County has now got it's first V10. One of the projects up at the Lions Wall went down.  "King Scar" was the project on the right most side of the wall, that climbed a slightly overhung face through crimps and slopers to the top.

Here is what the first ascentionist, Aaron Schneider had to say about it from his 8a card:
"Hard DESPERATE. Lurched to the last hold and managed to snag it off the heinous slopers. So psyched to put this one down. First double digit line (that I'm aware of) in Ohio, and a HARD 7C+ at that. Awesome Athen's crew to get me psyched. More lines to go."

I know it's not the first double digit line in Ohio, but it is the first for Athens.  They have a video of both the new lines which they should be posting soon.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Whats between you and the ground?

When I think about Misery, a cheesy horror film from the 90's in which Kathy Bates demolishes the some guy's ankles with a 4x4 and a sledgehammer, I get a little bit sick. Think about it next time your beaching yourself on the topout of “Pot-O-Gold” or praying to God /Allah/Xenu that your heel doesn't pop at the top of “50 Grit”. If you're climbing on a cheap crashpad, its akin to allowing a sub par actor who's career is slowly dying with Two and a Half Men go to town on your ankles with a mallet. As climbers, we live and die by our gear. You wouldn't climb on a rope you knew was sub par, just as you wouldn't rack cams that have seen two too many falls. Why climb above a crashpad that is made with cheap foam, sub-par nylon and carelessness towards construction?

Recently, there's been a movement among boulderers to hold their crashpads to the same standards as they hold their harnesses and ropes, we want the best. While the larger companies churn out 'budget' pads, the guys at outfits like Organic and Revolution strive to be the best. I came to the realization recently that I was climbing above a junk pad, and decided to invest in a new, bulletproof mat. I began my search and arrived at Revolution and Organic, first and foremost because of the standards they hold themselves to. Revolution has been making cutting edge bouldering gear for over a decade, and Organic is making a name for themselves as master craftsmen of fine bouldering gear. Both are made in the U.S of A by Americans, and are used by some of the strongest climbers our country has produced.

The Revolution Supreme:

New for 2011, The Supreme is Revolutions new flagship model. With a host of new features and a new design, the Supreme is sure to please. I originally had my heart set on this pad, but a backordering issue gave me cause to look elsewhere. If you can get your calloused fingers on one, call me, I want to fall on it.

The Organic Full Pad:

With top of the line construction, top of the line materials, and top of the line bad ass-ery, the Organic Full Pad is the the new industry standard. With the ability to make colorful custom pads, you can have a pad that suits your tastes and will surely impress all the crag honeys. Made lovingly just a hop and a skip across the Mid West in Pennsylvania, the close proximity means fast shipping, AKA instant gratification. After the back ordering flub with Revolution, I sent an email to Josh Helke at Organic and had an order placed before I even really realized what was going on. A week and a half later, the biggest box my RA had ever seen shipped to a dorm arrived, and inside was bouldering salvation. After a few days of just wearing the pad around the dorm (stupid rain), I got my chance to try it for real. Let me tell you, never have I been happier to come cartwheeling off some lichen ridden choss pile. Not only does the Organic Full pad catch a fall, it envelops a falling climbers body in a perfect balance of firmness and cushion-y softness. Nothing inspires more confidence 20 feet off the deck than an Organic pad placed below. The Full pad also comes with a dandy pouch where you can toss other bouldering essentials like brushes and clif bars.

I know your thinking- “But Daniel, these pads cost upwards of 230 dollars, Ill never be able to afford that!” To which I'll say “If you'd only cancel your subscription to Weaksause magazine and sell your Gilmore Girls DVD collection...” Seriously folks, do yourself and your ankles a favor, give the good folks at Revolution and Organic a call, they'll treat you real nice like...

Saturday, October 1, 2011

The Contributors

This page is dedicated to sharing a little about the individuals that have helped to share the knowledge on the Athens area climbing.  

Tim Rice

Age: 29
Nicknames: Tank, Tina, Weak-sauce
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem:  That's a tough one.
Where have you climbed: New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Coopers, HP40, RockTown, Lilly, Horseshoe Canyon, Red Rocks, Flatirons, Hound Ears
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Junior Bacon Cheese Burger - this has lead to more Athens County First Ascent then any other food group!

Jaime Rice

Age: 341 Months 
Nicknames: Courtney
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem: Trailside Arete, Silhouette, HJ in the TP
Where have you climbed: Here, there, everywhere (in the states)
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Cheese and peanut butter sandwiches and a Dr. Pepper

Dylan Proudfoot

Age: 25
Nicknames: DP
Years Climbing: Since 07
Favorite Athens County Problem: Ace in the Hole, Birds Nest
Where have you climbed: Jamaica, Yugoslavia, Telluride, Tim's Basement
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Pro Bars, Clifshots

Dustyn Whyte

Age: 22
Nicknames: D-Train
Years Climbing: 4ish
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Sunken Arete, Pot O' Gold
Where have you climbed: The Red, The New, The Adirondacks, Colorado, Rocktown, Coopers, HP4-, and other random places
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Meat Snacks

Shay Rosser

Age: 22
Nicknames: Shaysa, Rusty Blade Rosser
Years Climbing: 4
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Dope Nose, Emerald Arete, Arching Nemesis, Drew's Arete, and Breakdown.
Where have you climbed:  Athens OH, Rocktown GA, Lilly Boulders TN, Stone Fort (little rock city) TN, Horse Pins 40 AL, Hound Ears NC, Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch AK, Mount Sanitas CO, Boulder Canyon CO, Three Sisters CO, Flagstaff Mountain CO, Flat Irons CO, Telluride CO, Red River Gorge KY, New River Gorge WV.   
Favorite Climbing Fuel Monster Energy Drink mixed with water. 

Shane West

Age: 25
Nicknamesshaney, PBR guy, dumbass
Years Climbing: 5
Favorite Athens County Problem:  brass monkey/ finger crack at witches hill
Where have you climbedNRG RRG Red Rocks hound ears HP40 stone fort Joshua tree lake vesuvius
Favorite Climbing Fuelsend gummys (sour gummy worms)

Louis Aiden

Age: 23
Nicknames: LA, Lou the War Monger
Years Climbing: 6+
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Sunken Arete...or Pot of Gold...or anything with a heinous mantel...
Where have you climbed: The Climbing Tri-State: Athens, Coopers Rock, NRG, RRG...South: Stone Fort, Hound Ears, HP40, Rocktown, Lilly Boulders...Abroad: Bishop, Owens River Gorge, Yosemite, Lost Rocks (CA), Mammoth (CA), Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Moab, Flagstaff Mt. (CO), Three Sisters/Evergreen (CO), Boulder Canyon....Solution Rock Gym...etc.  
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Smirnoff Ice, and carrots (They Pack Well)

Jake Current

Age: 20
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed:   RRG; NRG; Index, WA; Jackson Hole, WY; Horseshoe Canyon, AR; Grand Teton, WY; Cooper's Rock, WV; Icicle Canyon, WA; and good ol' Athens
Favorite Climbing Fuel Dark Cherry Clif Bar Shot Bloks and Monster Energy Drinks

Corey Zukie

Age: 20
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed:  RRG, NRG, Bishop, Horseshoe canyon ranch, Leavenworth, WA, Index, WA, Jackson, WY, Ten Sleep, WY, 
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  climbing films and scenery

Daniel Hermanns

Age: 19
Years Climbing: 1 1/2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Discombobulated
Where have you climbed: New, Red, Coopers , Athens, Chattanooga, Horsepens, Horseshoe Canyon
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Peanut Butter Sandwiches