Sunday, October 31, 2010

Community News Flash:

Now that Halloween in Athens as come and gone it's time to get back to business.

Northeast Ohio Climbers Coalition:
If you are form the Northeastern Part of Ohio, call yourself a climber and don't know about this group, then it about time you did some research.  Their mission is ensures public access to rock climbing areas by working with the climbing community, authorities, landowners and property managers while encouraging environmental conservation and responsible climbing.

If you are not a member already I suggest that you visit their face book page. 

Why did I bring up a group located over a three hour drive away? Because they are taking on important issues that Ohio climbers face, access to public land.  More so recently the identity of the Metro Park.  We are fortunate that we are located in an area that is full of many open spaces for public use, many that allow unrestricted climbing an access.  However not to far of the road is a local Metro Park full of rock that your not allowed to touch.  So if you're from Summit County of the surrounding area please take some time to help your fellow locals with the cause. 
You can also check out the Summit Metro Parks and their facebook page here.

If you are able to attend the NEOCC and other climbers will be at SMP meeting on November 17 at 12pm.  More info on the meeting can be found on the NEOCC face book page under event, or here.

Info on other Northeastern Ohio climbing areas can be found here, the ruff guide site.

Other news:
  • "Party Cave" at Witches.  This line was cleaned an established up on Witches Hill at the back section of rock.  This line climbs out the leftmost side of the rock house that usually has a fire ring at it base, left from the most recent round of partying students.  It starts just  low in the cave at about 4/5 ft high on a large pocket/jug, from there if moves out, slightly to the left then straight up.  Climbing above the small boulders on the ground to a seemingly blank top out.  I would guess at the grade of about a V3/4, I didn't top it out the day I was there, still a little to dirty for my liking.  However, the line climbs very nicely over the suspect rock.  I would suggest that you bring a broom with you if you plan to climb this line, as it will likely be dirty, since there's a large hillside of dirt that sits above.
  • The Witches Online guide:  It's coming along nicely, we hope to have it up by the end of this week.
  • Athens Projects page will be updated soon, were going to remind you of all those projects that lie in the woods.  Hell were even going to give you directions and all of the the beta we have for them.
  • Tuesdays with Shay.  I hoped to have made a better impression with these, but Shay's schedule is uncooperative and he is being a sissy about getting out to try the above mention projects. I blame it all on Big Red!

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Hocking College Goes to the Trailer Park

The Hocking College Outdoor Pursuits Program took a trip to the Trailerpark last week.  I mention this because they have some nice photos of the Commitment Area on their Face Book page

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Commitment Area (Boulder Cove)

The Commitment Area is one of the oldest and most classic of all the Athens areas.  Mainly it is for the problem called "Brid's Nest"(pictured to the left), which is extremely unique and could be a classic any where you put it.  This problem and it alone is worth visiting this area.  However the concentration of quality lines and its location in relation to other areas make this a must visit.  All of the problems in this area have great landings, room for others to spectate, wide array of styles and good range of difficulties.

One of the downside to this area is that it is usually wet from late winter through mid ssummer, due the hillside that drains over it.

It is a short walk from the following areas; Ravine Boulders, Trailside Boulders, Font and Breakdown Cave.

Same parking area as the "Trailer Park". Park at the white barn(Dance Studio) parking area off of East State street, located behind the Ohio University credit union. This is the start of the "Cucumbertree Connector" trail. If it is full park in the Wal-mart parking lot an walk over.

From the White Dance barn head up the Cumcumbertree Connector trail.  Take this for about .2 of a mile until you reach an intersection with the Athens Trail.  This will intersect right near a wooden bridge.  Take a right on the Athens Trail and continue for about another .2 of a mile.  You will start to see some rock start to appear on your right.  The cliff band will slowly grow in size and quantity as you go.  You will come to a land bridge(bridge with no sides) next to a large roof.  Continue past for about 300ft, when you will come to a another bridge, at the bridge turn left off of the trail and head toward the rock following a scant trail.  The Commitment area is visiable from the bridge.  Head up the trail toward the roofed section.

1.    V3 The Mantle: JS. This is the first line as approach the area.  It is also the farthest left line.  Jump start up into a sweet mantle.
2.    V3 Commitment: SDS One of the greats.  This line starts on the underclings and opens up with a large throw, to the amazing flake.  Follow the flake to a committing mantle.  Variation: V2 from stand.
3.    V6 Dope Nose: AKA Three Times a Lady: SDS Same start as birds nest but throw out left to the other  drip feature.  Once on this feature follow it straight to the top without going back right. FA: Randy Cooper
a.    V7 Dope World . Same as 4a but done after DopeNose Start.
4.    V5 Birds Nest: Classic SDS. Start oncolonette and slap your way up the slopers to the throw.  Finish with mantle, don’t use your knees cheater.
a.    V6 Around the World: SDS.  Contrived Line.  Start on Birds Nest but instead of topping out, traverse the slopey ledge all the way to the Mantle(#1)
b.    V6 Underworld: Same as 4a but use the crimp edges just below the top.
5.    V3 Long Duck Dong: SDS. Start on the righthand side of the birds nest feature.  Pull on to the face with the right facing side pulls, then make a long move and finish same as birds nest.6.    V4 Tarzan: SUS. Start under the roof on the pocked face and climb into the roof and then out to the lip.  Watch out for that swing.  FA: Levi Rose
7.    V3 Sincere Apologies: SUS.   This is the first and leftmost line on the wall to the right of Tarzan.  Climb the face with out stemming to the left wall.  Usually wet!! Fa:Tim Rice
8.    V3 Elephant Ear: SUS. To the right of Waterfall.  Climb up onto the obvious large ear shaped feature and finish up the slope with the knobs.
9.    V2 Daws Jaws: SUS Start on obvious hold several feet to the right of Elephant ear.  Make a long move with crappy feet to gain good holds.

These problems are on the boulders in the commitment area10.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 1: SUS. On the lower boulder in the commitment area. Traverse up and left.
11.    V1 Commitment Warm Up 2: SUS. Start matched on the large slanted self, hit the pockets and head toward the point.  Mantle and watch out for the large rock that you could fall on.
12.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 3: SUS.  The upper boulder in the commitment area. Usually a puddle at the base in the spring.
13.     V1 Commitment Warm Up 4: SUS same start as (#12) but climb right across face then up arete to top.
14.    V2 AssDragin: SDS. Start on the lower right and traverse the lip and face holds left up to the point.
15.    V3 Wolfmother Mantle: SDS on the Square Boulder to the right of the warm ups.  Start and go straight into the mantle, that is only about 3ft tall and over the trail. FA: Dan Proudfoot

16.     V? Possible Project: SDS under low roof and mantle for finish. (not pictured)
17.     V0 Old Beginnings: SUS on the boulder at the base of the hill as the climbing trail breaks from the main Athens Trail.  Start on the pockets and head up to the slopy finish.

Link to Printable Guides:
B&W Overview Map - PDF
PDF w/color Photos - Coming Soon

Friday, October 15, 2010

New Line at Witches Hill

A possible V4ish line has been opened in the back sector of Witches Hill this week. "Party Cave" climbs out the right hand side of the large rock house located at the very back of Witches. This section of rock has normally been avoided due to its height, landing and general sandyness. But a couple of enthusiastic climbers have cleaned a pocketed section of the face and possible add another line to the hill.

Hope to get out and get some photos for you this week.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Tuesdays with Shay

So were going to start a new series here on the blog called "Tuesdays with Shay". Each week Shay will be visiting climbing areas around Athens, weather permitting. To start thing off were going to take a second to introduce the one and only "Shay".

Shay as born January 5, 1989 in a small town in central Ohio. Why is this important, it's not, but now you know how old he is and when to buy him a card for his birthday.

Shay is about 5 foot nine and weighs about 12olbs soaking wet with hiking boots on. Is this important. Yes, this allows the little bugger to hang on to some of the smallest holds, the ones that leave the rest of us shaking our heads and rubbing our sore tips.

Shay does have one thing going against him though. That is his shoulder, if you have seen it, you know what I'm talking about. It's the deformed one, the one that makes you want to puke a little in your mouth, every time you see him with his shirt off. Oh... and for some reason he is always taking his shirt off when he climbs.

Shay is however always a bag full of hoots and hollars to be around and climb with. When he's skyed he is full of positive energy that transforms the climbing posse he is rolling with.

So let the Tuesdays begin........

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

New Line at the Commitment Area

We managed to put up a new line at the Commitment Area today. The waterfall project had been completed lending way to "Sincere Apologies". This climbs the face to the left of the line "Elephant Ear", it climbs through some nice edges and slopers after the akward start. The face is climbed without stemming to the ugly and chossy wall to the left of the dihedral. Were guessing it weighs in at about a v3 and tops out at about 15feet. This is a nice addition to the area.

All of the holds and the top out are currently clean so go give it a try!