Sunday, October 17, 2010

Commitment Area (Boulder Cove)



The Commitment Area is one of the oldest and most classic of all the Athens areas.  Mainly it is for the problem called "Brid's Nest"(pictured to the left), which is extremely unique and could be a classic any where you put it.  This problem and it alone is worth visiting this area.  However the concentration of quality lines and its location in relation to other areas make this a must visit.  All of the problems in this area have great landings, room for others to spectate, wide array of styles and good range of difficulties.

One of the downside to this area is that it is usually wet from late winter through mid ssummer, due the hillside that drains over it.

It is a short walk from the following areas; Ravine Boulders, Trailside Boulders, Font and Breakdown Cave.


Parking:
Same parking area as the "Trailer Park". Park at the white barn(Dance Studio) parking area off of East State street, located behind the Ohio University credit union. This is the start of the "Cucumbertree Connector" trail. If it is full park in the Wal-mart parking lot an walk over.

Approach:
From the White Dance barn head up the Cumcumbertree Connector trail.  Take this for about .2 of a mile until you reach an intersection with the Athens Trail.  This will intersect right near a wooden bridge.  Take a right on the Athens Trail and continue for about another .2 of a mile.  You will start to see some rock start to appear on your right.  The cliff band will slowly grow in size and quantity as you go.  You will come to a land bridge(bridge with no sides) next to a large roof.  Continue past for about 300ft, when you will come to a another bridge, at the bridge turn left off of the trail and head toward the rock following a scant trail.  The Commitment area is visiable from the bridge.  Head up the trail toward the roofed section.


Routes:
1.    V3 The Mantle: JS. This is the first line as approach the area.  It is also the farthest left line.  Jump start up into a sweet mantle.
2.    V3 Commitment: SDS One of the greats.  This line starts on the underclings and opens up with a large throw, to the amazing flake.  Follow the flake to a committing mantle.  Variation: V2 from stand.
3.    V6 Dope Nose: AKA Three Times a Lady: SDS Same start as birds nest but throw out left to the other  drip feature.  Once on this feature follow it straight to the top without going back right. FA: Randy Cooper
a.    V7 Dope World . Same as 4a but done after DopeNose Start.
4.    V5 Birds Nest: Classic SDS. Start oncolonette and slap your way up the slopers to the throw.  Finish with mantle, don’t use your knees cheater.
a.    V6 Around the World: SDS.  Contrived Line.  Start on Birds Nest but instead of topping out, traverse the slopey ledge all the way to the Mantle(#1)
b.    V6 Underworld: Same as 4a but use the crimp edges just below the top.
5.    V3 Long Duck Dong: SDS. Start on the righthand side of the birds nest feature.  Pull on to the face with the right facing side pulls, then make a long move and finish same as birds nest.6.    V4 Tarzan: SUS. Start under the roof on the pocked face and climb into the roof and then out to the lip.  Watch out for that swing.  FA: Levi Rose
7.    V3 Sincere Apologies: SUS.   This is the first and leftmost line on the wall to the right of Tarzan.  Climb the face with out stemming to the left wall.  Usually wet!! Fa:Tim Rice
8.    V3 Elephant Ear: SUS. To the right of Waterfall.  Climb up onto the obvious large ear shaped feature and finish up the slope with the knobs.
9.    V2 Daws Jaws: SUS Start on obvious hold several feet to the right of Elephant ear.  Make a long move with crappy feet to gain good holds.

These problems are on the boulders in the commitment area10.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 1: SUS. On the lower boulder in the commitment area. Traverse up and left.
11.    V1 Commitment Warm Up 2: SUS. Start matched on the large slanted self, hit the pockets and head toward the point.  Mantle and watch out for the large rock that you could fall on.
12.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 3: SUS.  The upper boulder in the commitment area. Usually a puddle at the base in the spring.
13.     V1 Commitment Warm Up 4: SUS same start as (#12) but climb right across face then up arete to top.
14.    V2 AssDragin: SDS. Start on the lower right and traverse the lip and face holds left up to the point.
15.    V3 Wolfmother Mantle: SDS on the Square Boulder to the right of the warm ups.  Start and go straight into the mantle, that is only about 3ft tall and over the trail. FA: Dan Proudfoot

16.     V? Possible Project: SDS under low roof and mantle for finish. (not pictured)
17.     V0 Old Beginnings: SUS on the boulder at the base of the hill as the climbing trail breaks from the main Athens Trail.  Start on the pockets and head up to the slopy finish.

Link to Printable Guides:
B&W Overview Map - PDF
PDF w/color Photos - Coming Soon

9 comments:

Shane said...

Great post TIM thanks for all you hard work on the guide, couldnt do it with out ya.P.S birds nest is V5

jCurrent said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
jCurrent said...

i agree with shane. pics and guide look awesome, and bird's nest is v5 too. great work.

Ezekiel said...

Great post, didn't realize all those were such high level climbs.

Rusty Blade Rosser said...

Damn Timmy this thing is looking good! Can wait till you have some more!!!

Dustyn Whyte said...

Hells yeah, looks real good!

t-rav said...

You got bars? OH YEAH! The G4 playa network is the new guidebook... For EVERYWHERE! That's right kids, gather up all your old guidebooks, take them to your local book burning and then pitch them in!

No, Wait! mail them to me, I don't have the g4 network. Shit!

t-rav said...

Oh yeah, Awesome job Tim! Looks great!

adamwstroup@gmail.com said...

yo Tim what's up with the dual first ascent props on dope world?! Remember? dual first ascent! hehe.