Monday, April 12, 2010

Dam Boulders

The Dam Boulders is a small area, but it can entertain the finger tips for an afternoon. It contains a couple of good problems along with some projects, some of good quality, other choss. This area can also see some deviant recreation that occurs due it being a state park close to a main highway and parking lot. So just watch you step and be aware of your surroundings. Don't feel nervous about this area, I have been there many times with my 2 year old, with no concerns. However, I have had some weird encounters other times, just wanted you to be aware.

Parking:

Parking is located on OH-50 /OH-32 East past the east end of East State Street. Park in the same parking lot that serves as access to the dam at Dow Lake/ Stroud's Run State Park.

Approach:
From the parking lot head up the gravel road sized trail toward the dam. Go past the mountain biking trail(Sundowner) and continue to the top of the earthen dam. Once on the top take the trail to the right, same start as the Indian Mound Trail. However break off to the left and follow the same elevation grade to the boulders. About 1000ft down the trail you will find a small foot path that leads off to the right(can be easily missed). The boulders are at the end this foot paths about 200ft off of the main trail. (see map on PDF guide)

Routes:
Dam Boulder
1. V1+ Litter Box: SUS. If you are standing between the boulder and the cliff behind it this is the left arête. Standing start to Easy Mantle.
2. V? Sandy Dandy: Project. SUS. This is the face problem to the right of the of Litter Box. Hard start straight up the center to sandy pocket then mantle. Open project
3. V1 Right Arête: SUS. This is to the right of Sandy Dandy
3a. Variation that exits early.
4. V3 Dam Friction: SUS This is the First problem you approach off of the foot trail. It is a jump start in too the mantle on the corner. Hand friction is the key.
5. V? Little Roof Mantle: Project. Hard. This is a mantle that is above the little roof on the right of the boulder as you approach. Open Project.

Cliff Line
6. V? Spoolge Arête: SUS Sick. This is an arête on the small cliff behind the first boulder. Standing Start to the top. Looks stellar and hard. Project.
Slim Pickens Boulder
7. V0+ Sketchy: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is an inward leaning arête that easy and cool.
8. V2 Sweet Pickins: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is a beautiful looking line. This is on the west side of the boulder and climbs a Large C-shaped feature. Start on the feature and throw to the left slopey lip the traverse right and top out to the right of where you started.
9. V1 Snot Fact: JS. This is on the Second Boulder. To the left of SweetPickens. Jump to the concave area in the lip and mantle.
Link to Printable Guides:
Pdf Map and Guide
Pdf Photo One
Pdf Photo Two

4 comments:

Tim said...

This took a bit, probably full of typos too. But that's how I roll.

PDF photo files should be up soon, they are taking a long time to upload.

Enjoy and let me know what you think.

Shane said...

Nice Tim, thanks for all the work

Glennie9654 said...

thx u very much, i learn a lot

Tim said...

#6, The Spoolge Arete project has been sent. Bryant Noble got the FA and dubbed it "Comtemplation" V6ish.

From Bryant:
"Start on high left hand crimp and pinch arete right hand. Shorter folks will have to stack pads to reach the crimp."