Thursday, September 8, 2011

Witches Area - Front Section



This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing trafic, due to it visabilty and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulder.  The area is small but the consentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “Key Hole” and “Witches Traverse”.





Parking:

Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and parking is on the left and side just past it.

Approach:

 If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up onto bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb.  Be prepared for this steep climb.


This cluster of boulders and cliff-band is known as the front section of Witches.

Routes:


1. V? Nientendo Thumb Project: Climb the near blank arete to the top




 2. V1Climb the arete to the top.
3. V2 Castles Made of Sand: Climb the broken crack system to better holds.

4. 5.8 Climbing Class Mantel:  Easy way for some noobs to practice their manteling skills.
5.  V3 French Press:  SDS and work into a shouldery move., then reach for the top.
6. 5.6Climb the wide crack and its sides to the top.
7 V1 Balance Slab.: SUS Climb to the right of the crack and left of arete up the  slabby dihedreal.




8.V3 Thumber: SUS.  Work from start up ride side of the arete to awkward undercling then to slopey mantel.
9.V4  50 Grit:  SUS Crimps lead to large move to good edge followed by another to the amazing topout.



10. V1 Key Hole Arete:  SUS Climb the left side of the arete through a pocket to the top. (Variation 2, V2: Climb the arete with out the pocket for the “Keyless Entry”.) (Variation 3, V4 climb the face through the pocket without the arete for  “The Lock Smith”)
11, 5.7 School House Crack:  SUS Climb the esay crack system. Not Pictured








12. V1
13.   V3 Lip Traverse: SDS on jug and travel left and around the prow.
14.   V2
15. V0 Duck Bill: Mantle on the the flat feature.



16. V3 Witches Traverse:  SDS right of tree and cling to the lip as you move right to the point.
17.  V4 Drew Arete:  SDS on right side of the arete.  Make use of the limited feet, if you get off the ground you have done more then most.
18. 5.9 Pillow Fight: SUS and climb through slopers to the lip.
19. V1SUS and climb the arete to top.  Traverse into Witches Backside for something extra.


20. V4 Witches Brew.  SDS in large pocket and make move left to tiny sharp crimp pocket, move up and left and finish on 17#
21. V2 Witches Backside: SDS in large pocket and move straight up into trough like topout.  Used to be easier, but broken jugs are challenging.
22.   V4 Whale Sex: SDS on “Witches Backside” and move right after second hold, move across slimpers and other trash to reach a weakness in the topout.
23. V-Fun: Climb the slab with no hands, knees are cheating too!



24. V0 Prego In A Dress: SUS on the right and traverse to the other side.


25. V? Low Blow Joe Project Mantle:  SDS on  Low Ball and mantle on small block


Printable Overview Map - PDF

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