Help Keep The Boulders Beautiful!

Firstly, I'd like to say thank you to everyone who climbs in Athens.  There are more people out climbing these days than ever before, and the majority of folks do an awesome job leaving no trace, keep it up!

It seems other folk aren't so caring though

This is what Jake and I found at the new party cave line at witches hill when we went to give it a look.  Please take this into consideration next time you go climbing and throw a small trash bag in your pack.  Chances are we can't stop everyone from trashing the areas we love, but if we suck it up and grab a few cans on the way home we can keep the boulders beautiful!

Sunken Boulder Oct. 10

(Carrie V. on Frown)

There is not much better than nice Fall weather. I went out to The Sunken Boulder a couple weekends back with a few Athenians and Columbus Dispatch photographer Dan Sohner. Here are a few of the shots he took...
(Kent B. on Sunken Arete)




(Me on the Sunken Dyno)




(Kent back at it)

Community News Flash:

Now that Halloween in Athens as come and gone it's time to get back to business.

Northeast Ohio Climbers Coalition:
If you are form the Northeastern Part of Ohio, call yourself a climber and don't know about this group, then it about time you did some research.  Their mission is ensures public access to rock climbing areas by working with the climbing community, authorities, landowners and property managers while encouraging environmental conservation and responsible climbing.

If you are not a member already I suggest that you visit their face book page. 

Why did I bring up a group located over a three hour drive away? Because they are taking on important issues that Ohio climbers face, access to public land.  More so recently the identity of the Metro Park.  We are fortunate that we are located in an area that is full of many open spaces for public use, many that allow unrestricted climbing an access.  However not to far of the road is a local Metro Park full of rock that your not allowed to touch.  So if you're from Summit County of the surrounding area please take some time to help your fellow locals with the cause. 

You can also check out the Summit Metro Parks and their facebook page here.

If you are able to attend the NEOCC and other climbers will be at SMP meeting on November 17 at 12pm.  More info on the meeting can be found on the NEOCC face book page under event, or here.

Info on other Northeastern Ohio climbing areas can be found here, the ruff guide site.

Other news:

• "Party Cave" at Witches.  This line was cleaned an established up on Witches Hill at the back section of rock.  This line climbs out the leftmost side of the rock house that usually has a fire ring at it base, left from the most recent round of partying students.  It starts just  low in the cave at about 4/5 ft high on a large pocket/jug, from there if moves out, slightly to the left then straight up.  Climbing above the small boulders on the ground to a seemingly blank top out.  I would guess at the grade of about a V3/4, I didn't top it out the day I was there, still a little to dirty for my liking.  However, the line climbs very nicely over the suspect rock.  I would suggest that you bring a broom with you if you plan to climb this line, as it will likely be dirty, since there's a large hillside of dirt that sits above.
• The Witches Online guide:  It's coming along nicely, we hope to have it up by the end of this week.
• Athens Projects page will be updated soon, were going to remind you of all those projects that lie in the woods.  Hell were even going to give you directions and all of the the beta we have for them.
• Tuesdays with Shay.  I hoped to have made a better impression with these, but Shay's schedule is uncooperative and he is being a sissy about getting out to try the above mention projects. I blame it all on Big Red!

Hocking College Goes to the Trailer Park

The Hocking College Outdoor Pursuits Program took a trip to the Trailerpark last week.  I mention this because they have some nice photos of the Commitment Area on their Face Book page

Commitment Area (Boulder Cove)

The Commitment Area is one of the oldest and most classic of all the Athens areas.  Mainly it is for the problem called "Brid's Nest"(pictured to the left), which is extremely unique and could be a classic any where you put it.  This problem and it alone is worth visiting this area.  However the concentration of quality lines and its location in relation to other areas make this a must visit.  All of the problems in this area have great landings, room for others to spectate, wide array of styles and good range of difficulties.

One of the downside to this area is that it is usually wet from late winter through mid ssummer, due the hillside that drains over it.

It is a short walk from the following areas; Ravine Boulders, Trailside Boulders, Font and Breakdown Cave.


Parking:
Same parking area as the "Trailer Park". Park at the white barn(Dance Studio) parking area off of East State street, located behind the Ohio University credit union. This is the start of the "Cucumbertree Connector" trail. If it is full park in the Wal-mart parking lot an walk over.

Approach:
From the White Dance barn head up the Cumcumbertree Connector trail.  Take this for about .2 of a mile until you reach an intersection with the Athens Trail.  This will intersect right near a wooden bridge.  Take a right on the Athens Trail and continue for about another .2 of a mile.  You will start to see some rock start to appear on your right.  The cliff band will slowly grow in size and quantity as you go.  You will come to a land bridge(bridge with no sides) next to a large roof.  Continue past for about 300ft, when you will come to a another bridge, at the bridge turn left off of the trail and head toward the rock following a scant trail.  The Commitment area is visiable from the bridge.  Head up the trail toward the roofed section.


Routes:
1.    V3 The Mantle: JS. This is the first line as approach the area.  It is also the farthest left line.  Jump start up into a sweet mantle.
2.    V3 Commitment: SDS One of the greats.  This line starts on the underclings and opens up with a large throw, to the amazing flake.  Follow the flake to a committing mantle.  Variation: V2 from stand.
3.    V6 Dope Nose: AKA Three Times a Lady: SDS Same start as birds nest but throw out left to the other  drip feature.  Once on this feature follow it straight to the top without going back right. FA: Randy Cooper
a.    V7 Dope World . Same as 4a but done after DopeNose Start.
4.    V5 Birds Nest: Classic SDS. Start oncolonette and slap your way up the slopers to the throw.  Finish with mantle, don’t use your knees cheater.
a.    V6 Around the World: SDS.  Contrived Line.  Start on Birds Nest but instead of topping out, traverse the slopey ledge all the way to the Mantle(#1)
b.    V6 Underworld: Same as 4a but use the crimp edges just below the top.
5.    V3 Long Duck Dong: SDS. Start on the righthand side of the birds nest feature.  Pull on to the face with the right facing side pulls, then make a long move and finish same as birds nest.6.    V4 Tarzan: SUS. Start under the roof on the pocked face and climb into the roof and then out to the lip.  Watch out for that swing.  FA: Levi Rose
7.    V3 Sincere Apologies: SUS.   This is the first and leftmost line on the wall to the right of Tarzan.  Climb the face with out stemming to the left wall.  Usually wet!! Fa:Tim Rice
8.    V3 Elephant Ear: SUS. To the right of Waterfall.  Climb up onto the obvious large ear shaped feature and finish up the slope with the knobs.
9.    V2 Daws Jaws: SUS Start on obvious hold several feet to the right of Elephant ear.  Make a long move with crappy feet to gain good holds.

These problems are on the boulders in the commitment area10.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 1: SUS. On the lower boulder in the commitment area. Traverse up and left.
11.    V1 Commitment Warm Up 2: SUS. Start matched on the large slanted self, hit the pockets and head toward the point.  Mantle and watch out for the large rock that you could fall on.
12.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 3: SUS.  The upper boulder in the commitment area. Usually a puddle at the base in the spring.
13.     V1 Commitment Warm Up 4: SUS same start as (#12) but climb right across face then up arete to top.
14.    V2 AssDragin: SDS. Start on the lower right and traverse the lip and face holds left up to the point.
15.    V3 Wolfmother Mantle: SDS on the Square Boulder to the right of the warm ups.  Start and go straight into the mantle, that is only about 3ft tall and over the trail. FA: Dan Proudfoot

16.     V? Possible Project: SDS under low roof and mantle for finish. (not pictured)
17.     V0 Old Beginnings: SUS on the boulder at the base of the hill as the climbing trail breaks from the main Athens Trail.  Start on the pockets and head up to the slopy finish.

Link to Printable Guides:
B&W Overview Map - PDF
PDF w/color Photos - Coming Soon

New Line at Witches Hill

A possible V4ish line has been opened in the back sector of Witches Hill this week. "Party Cave" climbs out the right hand side of the large rock house located at the very back of Witches. This section of rock has normally been avoided due to its height, landing and general sandyness. But a couple of enthusiastic climbers have cleaned a pocketed section of the face and possible add another line to the hill.

Hope to get out and get some photos for you this week.

Tuesdays with Shay

So were going to start a new series here on the blog called "Tuesdays with Shay". Each week Shay will be visiting climbing areas around Athens, weather permitting. To start thing off were going to take a second to introduce the one and only "Shay".

Shay as born January 5, 1989 in a small town in central Ohio. Why is this important, it's not, but now you know how old he is and when to buy him a card for his birthday.

Shay is about 5 foot nine and weighs about 12olbs soaking wet with hiking boots on. Is this important. Yes, this allows the little bugger to hang on to some of the smallest holds, the ones that leave the rest of us shaking our heads and rubbing our sore tips.

Shay does have one thing going against him though. That is his shoulder, if you have seen it, you know what I'm talking about. It's the deformed one, the one that makes you want to puke a little in your mouth, every time you see him with his shirt off. Oh... and for some reason he is always taking his shirt off when he climbs.

Shay is however always a bag full of hoots and hollars to be around and climb with. When he's skyed he is full of positive energy that transforms the climbing posse he is rolling with.

So let the Tuesdays begin........

New Line at the Commitment Area

We managed to put up a new line at the Commitment Area today. The waterfall project had been completed lending way to "Sincere Apologies". This climbs the face to the left of the line "Elephant Ear", it climbs through some nice edges and slopers after the akward start. The face is climbed without stemming to the ugly and chossy wall to the left of the dihedral. Were guessing it weighs in at about a v3 and tops out at about 15feet. This is a nice addition to the area.

All of the holds and the top out are currently clean so go give it a try!

Athens Bouldering Update - 9-19-2010

Athens Bouldering Update since the storms blew in. Committment area is clean, ravine area along with Font area have trees in them. Not sure on Coad or Emerald. Sunken Boulder is good, but tons, I means tons of trees are down from the recent storms. We need to organize a clean up to help the other user groups. Anyone available?

Found Shoe!

I found a single shoe at the trailer park. Let me know if you lost one.

Bears in the Woods of Kentucky..What!?

Apparently bears are making a come back into the woods of the Daniel Boone National Forest. This is great news for the region. However there was a bear attack this past week in the Red River Gorge Region of the forest, this has prompted the closing of some major crags.

More details can be found here and a news report here, along with the official forest page.

Sunday in the NRG 6/20/01

Went down to the NRG last Sunday to enjoy the 90 degree weather. With the perfect temps it seemed like the perfect day to hit the New. With us, my brother came and documented the flora and fauna.

We drove down to the White Wall in the South side of Meadow River Gorge, way back in the sticks. Mikes Truck, and Travs' Road Warrior easily conquered the manky class one approach to the business.
On the way in we stopped to push a chevy s-10 out of the ditch, got some toothless local good luck and then proceeded to the crushing. Sixty-five percent of the day was spent in the shade hanging out in the forest and the other thirty-five percent was spent getting on the nasty.
Here's Jaime on the tron-sight of Flaming Pellets.
I stuck with the bolts all day, Jamie and Trav wrapped it up with some trad sends, and Maria topped and cleaned the last route as we packed up in the dusk.

Check out his site and some more photos from years past at the Ping Center and Hocking College climbing comps. If you hit the "Home" link then "climbing" you cant miss it.
here...

http://www.douglasaden.com/gallery.html?directory=images%2FGeorge%2FNew+River%2F2010_06_20%2F&pageNumber=1&onHomepage=#NewRiver

Safety Alert

In light of a recent accident at the New River Gorge I want to help share some info about a piece of gear.

Watch this video

You can read about the accident here and here

So remember to be safe this summer and always, always double check yourselves.

Dam Boulders

The Dam Boulders is a small area, but it can entertain the finger tips for an afternoon. It contains a couple of good problems along with some projects, some of good quality, other choss. This area can also see some deviant recreation that occurs due it being a state park close to a main highway and parking lot. So just watch you step and be aware of your surroundings. Don't feel nervous about this area, I have been there many times with my 2 year old, with no concerns. However, I have had some weird encounters other times, just wanted you to be aware.

Parking:
Parking is located on OH-50 /OH-32 East past the east end of East State Street. Park in the same parking lot that serves as access to the dam at Dow Lake/ Stroud's Run State Park.

Approach:
From the parking lot head up the gravel road sized trail toward the dam. Go past the mountain biking trail(Sundowner) and continue to the top of the earthen dam. Once on the top take the trail to the right, same start as the Indian Mound Trail. However break off to the left and follow the same elevation grade to the boulders. About 1000ft down the trail you will find a small foot path that leads off to the right(can be easily missed). The boulders are at the end this foot paths about 200ft off of the main trail. (see map on PDF guide)

Routes:
Dam Boulder
1. V1+ Litter Box: SUS. If you are standing between the boulder and the cliff behind it this is the left arête. Standing start to Easy Mantle.
2. V? Sandy Dandy: Project. SUS. This is the face problem to the right of the of Litter Box. Hard start straight up the center to sandy pocket then mantle. Open project
3. V1 Right Arête: SUS. This is to the right of Sandy Dandy
3a. Variation that exits early.
4. V3 Dam Friction: SUS This is the First problem you approach off of the foot trail. It is a jump start in too the mantle on the corner. Hand friction is the key.
5. V? Little Roof Mantle: Project. Hard. This is a mantle that is above the little roof on the right of the boulder as you approach. Open Project.

Cliff Line
6. V? Spoolge Arête: SUS Sick. This is an arête on the small cliff behind the first boulder. Standing Start to the top. Looks stellar and hard. Project.
Slim Pickens Boulder
7. V0+ Sketchy: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is an inward leaning arête that easy and cool.
8. V2 Sweet Pickins: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is a beautiful looking line. This is on the west side of the boulder and climbs a Large C-shaped feature. Start on the feature and throw to the left slopey lip the traverse right and top out to the right of where you started.
9. V1 Snot Fact: JS. This is on the Second Boulder. To the left of SweetPickens. Jump to the concave area in the lip and mantle.
Link to Printable Guides:
Pdf Map and Guide
Pdf Photo One
Pdf Photo Two

Trip Report 3/18/10

Trailer Park

The weather was fantastic, We truly couldn't ask for any better in March, so Dustyn, Jake,Emily, Dan C, and myself headed for the Trailer Park. Our first stop was to be Sunken boulder, due to Dustyn's unfinished business with Frown. So after a nice hike it was time to get our send on. The boulder condition was great, completely dry and after a quick sweep of the top out it was time to get our send on. A quick warm up on the right of the arete lead to Dustyn's much needed 1st go on Frown. After Jake giving it a few unsuccessful attempts we moved on back towards the TP. We saw some other local Athenians just up the hill from sunken running a train on HJ in the TP, so we said hello and went on our way.

Next stop was The font area. Boulder conditions in this area seem to be getting high traffic, making it great to just jump right on after the usual top out sweep on "The Font Arete". Soon after arriving at the area we were meet by the Hocking crew also taking advantage of the the great weather and looking for their early season sends.
With our time in the woods coming to and end we headed up the hill to check out the conditions of "break down" boulder. To our surprise break down was climbable. A quick once over with an M16 left the holds ready to be crushed. After everyone gave it a few goes we decided to call it a day and head back.

Crash Pad Deal

Revolution is rocking a deal on their Commando Pad. They are clearing out their 2009 pads for
$80, they normally retail for $160

Revolution Climbing 41" x 32" x 3" (104cm x 81cm x 8cm) Commando Pad. Backpack straps, closure flaps, taco fold, and all-around burlyness. We have some of the 2009 models around here, and we're doing a big-ass sale on them: $80 sound good? E-mail us or give us a free call: 877-2-Boulder.

If you get two or more shipping is free.

Check it out!

Spring Cleaning

Tis the Season!!!!

Hey there all you Local Athens climbers, the weather is great and after pulling plastic for many winter months, its finally time to get back outside and work those finger shredding, mantleiciouse, Athens projects and problems that you ve been sending in your mind all winter long. Well guys and gals Tis the season for some cleaning. After getting on some of Athens finest problems and topping out on sandy beaches, and muddy holds all day, the boulders were in dire need of a good once over with a few brushes.
So I decided I would make my first of the season brush buying binge. After spending about 2 hours hitting up local shops I came across some ever so perfect rock brushes. So I figured I would do my best to give all my fellow Athenians some brush buying beta. First on the list is the ever so important "M 16" these wonderful crimp dusters can be picked up at Ohio Valley in Athens or Nelsonville. You can find them in the gun cleaning isle. Next on the brush tick list was the ever so soft horse hair , sloper sprinkling chalk brush. After a few stops and being shut down I headed to the ever so dreaded "Wal Mart" yes I know I really tried to get it every where else but didn't have any luck. I got this jewel in the shoe dept with the shoe shining stuff. Definitely a must have. While I was there I also picked up a cheapo broom for those classic Athens top outs. I then finished up at the dollar general picking up a few bigger brushes for the 1st of the seasons clean fest.
I know this weather has everyone heading for the hills and local boulder fields, so i figured I would remind you all take a brush and help out. Please stay clear of the super hard bristled brushes or wire brushes, there hard on the rock and can damage its natural texture. So to all you climbers that have been cooped up in basements, cold garages, and college top rope walls. IT IS TIME TO CLIMB!!!

Supplies and Gear

Where to restock you camping and climbing supplies?

Athens Area

The Pedaler and Packer:
What they got? The Pedaler has variety of gear to meet your needs. They stock a small selection of climbing shoes(Five ten and mammut), along with a couple crash pads. They also carry a selection of carabinners, harnesses and nylon product(rope, cordage, and webbing). Highly knowledge staff. One of the only places to get chalk.

432 Richland Ave
Athens Ohio 45701
740-592-4630
Map

Ohio University - Outdoor Pursuits Rental Center:

• The Rental and Sales Center is located off the Ping Center loading dock. Access from outside Ping.

What they got? They have a well stocked rental center with tents, sleeping bags, and other general camping gear. They also carry chalk, tape and a few harnesses.

South Green Dr
Athens Oh 45701
740-597-2154
Map


Dunham's Sports:
What they Got? Dunhams is more or a general sports store. But you can find general camping gear and a tape.

The Market on State
1006 East State Street
Athens, Oh 45701
740-592-1032
Map

Walmart:
What they got? It's walmart.

929 East State St.
Athens, Ohio 45701
740-594-3398
Map

Athens County Attractions

This a incomplete list of non climbing things to do while visiting Athens.

As Always you can also visit the Visitors Bureau site, or check out the links below.

Mountain Biking:
Trails to Ride:
Athens/Strouds Run Trail Network
Lake Hope State Park

Local Bike Shops:
Athens Bicycle
Athens Cycle Path
The Pedaler and Packer

Zip Tours
Hocking Hills Canopy Tours
Hocking Peaks

Canoeing and Kayaking
Hocking Valley Canoe Livery
Hocking Hills Canoe Livery
Earth, Water and Rock

Disc Golf:
Hocking College Course (Dg Course Review)

Ohio University Course
Hocking Hills Course - Hocking Peaks
Lancaster Course - Flat Rocks
Reedsville Course - Forked Run

Golf :
Ohio University - 9 hole Course
Athens Country Club
Elm Golf Course
Forest Hills
Brass Ring
Pine Hills

Other Family Fun Activity Areas:
Hocking Peaks Adventure Park
ATV World
Hocking Fun Center


Movie Theaters:
Athena Grand
Movies Ten
Athena

Local Special Interests:
Athens Farmers Market

Preview of the PDF's

Here is a link to a printable PDF for the Emerald Boulder.

Emerald Boulder

These are in the works for all of the Athens County climbing areas. Commitment Area, Trailside, Font and Dam Area are near completion. They will be posted in conjunction with the area description pages.

Emerald Boulder Page

Emergency Services

Athens County has a 911 service.

Athens Area:
Athens City Police - 740-593-6606
County Sheriff - 740-593-6633
Hospitals
O'bleness Memorial Hospital - 740-593-5551
55 Hospital Drive, Athens Ohio 45701 see Map

Holzer Clinic Athens
Phone - (740) 589-3100
Urgent Care (740) 589-3120
2131 East State St
Athens, OH 45701


Nelsonville Area::
Nelsonville City Police
County Sheriff - 740-593-6633
Hospitals
Doctors Hospital - 740-753-7300
1950 Mt. St. Mary Dr, Nelsonville Ohio 45764 see Map

Logan Area: (Hocking Hills Climbing and Rappelling Area)
Hocking Hills State Park Office - 740-385-6842
Hocking County Sheriff - 740-385-2131
Hospitals
Hocking Valley Community Hospital - 740-380-8000
601 State Rt. 664 North
Logan, Ohio 43138 see Map

Athens Camping and Lodging

Hotels:
Hampton Inn:
986 E. State St, Athens Ohio
740-593-5600

Holiday Inn Express:
555 East State St., Athens Ohio
740-592-4640
Is located just off of route 33 and behind Abblebees

Days Inn:
330 Columbus Rd, Athens Ohio
740-592-4000

Knights Inn:
997 East State St, Athens Ohio
740-593-5565

Super 8 Motel:
2091 East State St, Athens Ohio
740-594-4900


Camping:
Stroud's Run State Park Campground:
11661 State Park Road
Athens, Ohio 45701
(740) 592-2302
Park Map / Campground Map

Lake Snowden:
5900 Us Hwy 50
Albany Ohio 45710
740-698-6373
Lake Snowden Maps



Cabin Rentals:
Hocking Hills Region (more info to come)

Let me know if you have other suggestions for this post. Areas you have camped or cabins you have stayed in or know about. Ill add them to the blog.

New Blog Discovery

Recently found a new blog that has some worthy information.

The Mountain World

See this post for interesting tests of older climbing ropes.


Have also added it to the links list for your future viewing pleasure.


-tim