Bears in the Woods of Kentucky..What!?

Apparently bears are making a come back into the woods of the Daniel Boone National Forest. This is great news for the region. However there was a bear attack this past week in the Red River Gorge Region of the forest, this has prompted the closing of some major crags.

More details can be found here and a news report here, along with the official forest page.

Sunday in the NRG 6/20/01

Went down to the NRG last Sunday to enjoy the 90 degree weather. With the perfect temps it seemed like the perfect day to hit the New. With us, my brother came and documented the flora and fauna.

We drove down to the White Wall in the South side of Meadow River Gorge, way back in the sticks. Mikes Truck, and Travs' Road Warrior easily conquered the manky class one approach to the business.
On the way in we stopped to push a chevy s-10 out of the ditch, got some toothless local good luck and then proceeded to the crushing. Sixty-five percent of the day was spent in the shade hanging out in the forest and the other thirty-five percent was spent getting on the nasty.
Here's Jaime on the tron-sight of Flaming Pellets.
I stuck with the bolts all day, Jamie and Trav wrapped it up with some trad sends, and Maria topped and cleaned the last route as we packed up in the dusk.

Check out his site and some more photos from years past at the Ping Center and Hocking College climbing comps. If you hit the "Home" link then "climbing" you cant miss it.
here...

http://www.douglasaden.com/gallery.html?directory=images%2FGeorge%2FNew+River%2F2010_06_20%2F&pageNumber=1&onHomepage=#NewRiver

Safety Alert

In light of a recent accident at the New River Gorge I want to help share some info about a piece of gear.

Watch this video

You can read about the accident here and here

So remember to be safe this summer and always, always double check yourselves.

Dam Boulders

The Dam Boulders is a small area, but it can entertain the finger tips for an afternoon. It contains a couple of good problems along with some projects, some of good quality, other choss. This area can also see some deviant recreation that occurs due it being a state park close to a main highway and parking lot. So just watch you step and be aware of your surroundings. Don't feel nervous about this area, I have been there many times with my 2 year old, with no concerns. However, I have had some weird encounters other times, just wanted you to be aware.

Parking:
Parking is located on OH-50 /OH-32 East past the east end of East State Street. Park in the same parking lot that serves as access to the dam at Dow Lake/ Stroud's Run State Park.

Approach:
From the parking lot head up the gravel road sized trail toward the dam. Go past the mountain biking trail(Sundowner) and continue to the top of the earthen dam. Once on the top take the trail to the right, same start as the Indian Mound Trail. However break off to the left and follow the same elevation grade to the boulders. About 1000ft down the trail you will find a small foot path that leads off to the right(can be easily missed). The boulders are at the end this foot paths about 200ft off of the main trail. (see map on PDF guide)

Routes:
Dam Boulder
1. V1+ Litter Box: SUS. If you are standing between the boulder and the cliff behind it this is the left arête. Standing start to Easy Mantle.
2. V? Sandy Dandy: Project. SUS. This is the face problem to the right of the of Litter Box. Hard start straight up the center to sandy pocket then mantle. Open project
3. V1 Right Arête: SUS. This is to the right of Sandy Dandy
3a. Variation that exits early.
4. V3 Dam Friction: SUS This is the First problem you approach off of the foot trail. It is a jump start in too the mantle on the corner. Hand friction is the key.
5. V? Little Roof Mantle: Project. Hard. This is a mantle that is above the little roof on the right of the boulder as you approach. Open Project.

Cliff Line
6. V? Spoolge Arête: SUS Sick. This is an arête on the small cliff behind the first boulder. Standing Start to the top. Looks stellar and hard. Project.
Slim Pickens Boulder
7. V0+ Sketchy: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is an inward leaning arête that easy and cool.
8. V2 Sweet Pickins: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is a beautiful looking line. This is on the west side of the boulder and climbs a Large C-shaped feature. Start on the feature and throw to the left slopey lip the traverse right and top out to the right of where you started.
9. V1 Snot Fact: JS. This is on the Second Boulder. To the left of SweetPickens. Jump to the concave area in the lip and mantle.
Link to Printable Guides:
Pdf Map and Guide
Pdf Photo One
Pdf Photo Two

Trip Report 3/18/10

Trailer Park

The weather was fantastic, We truly couldn't ask for any better in March, so Dustyn, Jake,Emily, Dan C, and myself headed for the Trailer Park. Our first stop was to be Sunken boulder, due to Dustyn's unfinished business with Frown. So after a nice hike it was time to get our send on. The boulder condition was great, completely dry and after a quick sweep of the top out it was time to get our send on. A quick warm up on the right of the arete lead to Dustyn's much needed 1st go on Frown. After Jake giving it a few unsuccessful attempts we moved on back towards the TP. We saw some other local Athenians just up the hill from sunken running a train on HJ in the TP, so we said hello and went on our way.

Next stop was The font area. Boulder conditions in this area seem to be getting high traffic, making it great to just jump right on after the usual top out sweep on "The Font Arete". Soon after arriving at the area we were meet by the Hocking crew also taking advantage of the the great weather and looking for their early season sends.
With our time in the woods coming to and end we headed up the hill to check out the conditions of "break down" boulder. To our surprise break down was climbable. A quick once over with an M16 left the holds ready to be crushed. After everyone gave it a few goes we decided to call it a day and head back.

Crash Pad Deal

Revolution is rocking a deal on their Commando Pad. They are clearing out their 2009 pads for
$80, they normally retail for $160

Revolution Climbing 41" x 32" x 3" (104cm x 81cm x 8cm) Commando Pad. Backpack straps, closure flaps, taco fold, and all-around burlyness. We have some of the 2009 models around here, and we're doing a big-ass sale on them: $80 sound good? E-mail us or give us a free call: 877-2-Boulder.

If you get two or more shipping is free.

Check it out!

Spring Cleaning

Tis the Season!!!!

Hey there all you Local Athens climbers, the weather is great and after pulling plastic for many winter months, its finally time to get back outside and work those finger shredding, mantleiciouse, Athens projects and problems that you ve been sending in your mind all winter long. Well guys and gals Tis the season for some cleaning. After getting on some of Athens finest problems and topping out on sandy beaches, and muddy holds all day, the boulders were in dire need of a good once over with a few brushes.
So I decided I would make my first of the season brush buying binge. After spending about 2 hours hitting up local shops I came across some ever so perfect rock brushes. So I figured I would do my best to give all my fellow Athenians some brush buying beta. First on the list is the ever so important "M 16" these wonderful crimp dusters can be picked up at Ohio Valley in Athens or Nelsonville. You can find them in the gun cleaning isle. Next on the brush tick list was the ever so soft horse hair , sloper sprinkling chalk brush. After a few stops and being shut down I headed to the ever so dreaded "Wal Mart" yes I know I really tried to get it every where else but didn't have any luck. I got this jewel in the shoe dept with the shoe shining stuff. Definitely a must have. While I was there I also picked up a cheapo broom for those classic Athens top outs. I then finished up at the dollar general picking up a few bigger brushes for the 1st of the seasons clean fest.
I know this weather has everyone heading for the hills and local boulder fields, so i figured I would remind you all take a brush and help out. Please stay clear of the super hard bristled brushes or wire brushes, there hard on the rock and can damage its natural texture. So to all you climbers that have been cooped up in basements, cold garages, and college top rope walls. IT IS TIME TO CLIMB!!!