Thursday, January 21, 2010

Athens Camping and Lodging





Hotels:
Hampton Inn:
986 E. State St, Athens Ohio
740-593-5600

Holiday Inn Express:
555 East State St., Athens Ohio
740-592-4640
Is located just off of route 33 and behind Abblebees

Days Inn:
330 Columbus Rd, Athens Ohio
740-592-4000

Knights Inn:
997 East State St, Athens Ohio
740-593-5565

Super 8 Motel:
2091 East State St, Athens Ohio
740-594-4900


Camping:
Stroud's Run State Park Campground:
11661 State Park Road
Athens, Ohio 45701

(740) 592-2302
Park Map / Campground Map

Lake Snowden:
5900 Us Hwy 50
Albany Ohio 45710
740-698-6373
Lake Snowden Maps



Cabin Rentals:
Hocking Hills Region (more info to come)

Let me know if you have other suggestions for this post. Areas you have camped or cabins you have stayed in or know about. Ill add them to the blog.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

New Blog Discovery

Recently found a new blog that has some worthy information.

The Mountain World

See this post for interesting tests of older climbing ropes.


Have also added it to the links list for your future viewing pleasure.


-tim

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Hunting Season

Hunting Season is here, and I'm not talking about looking for new problems in the hills. Ohio's hunting season as been in full swing for a while now, however there is one week a year that catches my attention a little more then others. That week is referred to a "Deer Gun Week" around here, it lasts from November 30th through December 6th. This is the only week that Hunters are permitted to hunt deer with a gun, besides a couple special weekends.

I want to let people know about this Deer Gun Week due to the affect that it has on the local climbing. Several of the areas that are mentioned in this blog and that allow climbing are also open to hunters during the above mentioned dates. So be careful if your out and about in the woods this week, make sure to wear bright colors and beware of your surroundings.

Even in areas as such as the Trailer Park I have seen hunters. The best places to climb during this week would probably be COAD and Witches.

Below is some info on Ohio's Hunting from ODNR' page.


Deer Zones and Bag Limits

Deer Permit ($24)
Antlerless Deer Permit ($15)

Zone
Opening Date
Closing Date
Limit
Opening Date
Closing Date
Limit
Total
A
Sept 26, 2009
Feb 7, 2010
1
Sept 26, 2009
Nov 29, 2009
1
2
B
Sept 26, 2009
Feb 7, 2010
2
Sept 26, 2009
Nov 29, 2009
2
4
C
Sept 26, 2009
Feb 7, 2010
3
Sept 26, 2009
Dec 6, 2009
3
6

Deer Hunting Hours

Archery season hours are 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset.

Hours for deer hunting are 1/2 hour before sunrise to sunset for the Youth Deer Gun Season, Deer Gun Season, the Early Muzzleloader Season, and Statewide Muzzleloader Season.

09-2010 Hunting Season Dates and Bag Limits

SPECIES

OPENING DATE

CLOSING DATE

DAILY BAG

White-tailed Deer: Archery

September 26

February 7

Refer to Deer Hunting Section for details on zone and bag limits

White-tailed Deer: Early Muzzleloader
Wildcat Hollow,
Salt Fork Wildlife Area, Shawnee State Forest

October 19

October 24
White-tailed Deer:
Youth Gun
November 21
November 22
White-tailed Deer:
Gun
November 30
December 6

White-tailed Deer:
Gun (extended)

December 19
December 20

White-tailed Deer:
Muzzleloader

January 9
January 12

Wild Turkey:
Fall

October 10

November 29

Refer to Turkey Hunting Section for details on seasonal bag limits

Wild Turkey: Spring

April 19

May 16

Squirrel
(gray, red, fox, black)

September 1

January 31

6

Mourning Dove

September 1 - Refer to Publication 298 or Small Game Section

Ruffed Grouse

October 10

January 31

2

Goose and Brant
Refer to Waterfowl Season Dates or refer to Publication 295
Click here to review all Waterfowl Season Information
Ducks, Coots, Mergansers and Canvasbacks
Refer to Waterfowl Season Dates or refer to Publication 295
Click here to review all Waterfowl Season Information

Cottontail Rabbit

November 6

February 28

4

Ringneck Pheasant

November 6

January 10

2 (cock pheasants only)

Bobwhite Quail

November 6

November 29

4

Fox, Raccoon, Skunk, Opossum, Weasel

November 10

January 31

No Limit

Crow
Fri. Sat. Sun. Only

June 5, 2009

March 14, 2010

No Limit

Coyote

No closed season for hunting or trapping

No Limit

Wild boar

No closed season for hunting

No Limit

Groundhog

Closed during deer gun season only

No Limit

Monday, November 23, 2009

An Out-Of-Towners Guide To Athens Bouldering

Tim is working hard on putting together guides for all the different climbing areas in and around Athens, but after looking through the old post I realized there aren't any directions listed to get you to the bouldering in the first place, so I thought I would give some to get the folks from out of (and in) town started

Driving directions-  To access the bulk of Athens climbing there is an excellent trail network.  If it's your first time coming in to town,  I suggest you start with the COAD/Trailer Park Areas.  The trail head for these areas is located on East State Street.  If coming taking 33 East or West, follow the signs towards the State street exit. Once you reach East State Street, turn East towards Apple Bees, you should pass it on your right.  Continue following East State past a few car dealerships, shops, and restaurants (a few should be familiar from Dylan's post).  After passing through a few lights you will come to an intersection with Walmart and Burger King on your right, and The Ohio University Credit Union on your left.  From here you will turn left down a small street which I can't find the name of.  The Credit Union should now be on your right, and a small trailer park on your left.  Park at the end of the road at the  big blue and white barn.  The obvious trail in to the woods is called the Cucumber trail. 

Directions to the boulders-  Follow the cucumber trail in to the woods.  Please stay on the main trail not only because it is good ethics, but because this trail is on privately owned land, and we don't want to lose access!  Follow this trail until you reach a wooden foot bridge on your left.  To access COAD and the emerald boulder cross the footbridge and follow the trail left.  To access the trailer park boulders pass the bridge and continue on.  Along this trail you will pass the commitment area, the ravine area, the font area, the spirit area, and tons of other established problems.

Definitive guides coming soon, stay tuned...

Here is a map of the Athens trail network on which I marked the bouldering parking in red, along with a couple of the more condensed areas.  Hope this helps!

Monday, November 16, 2009

Trip Report: HP40, Triple Crown Event


This past weekend a large group of Ohioans traveled the 1400 miles to compete in the second leg of the Triple Crown event at Horse Pens 40. The Triple Crown is a series of three bouldering competitions spread across three boulderfields, and three states.
From the TC website
WHAT IS THE TRIPLE CROWN? The goal of the Triple Crown is twofold. First and foremost, the mission is to raise funds for two organizations dedicated to maintaining climbers' access: the Southeastern Climbers' Coalition and The Carolina Climbers' Coalition. These two organizations have been instrumental in the acquisition of land for the climbing community, in a region that is riddled with access issues. Secondly, this unique event will once again provide a tremendous opportunity for vendors to promote the sport of bouldering, which has quickly become the focus of the ever growing climbing community.
There were six of us that drove down from Athens and met up with three more from Athenians, three from c-bus, and three from the nasty. With our powers combined we created a force to be reckoned with.

We arrived on Friday afternoon to temps in the high 60's and a campsite that was awaiting our tents, thanks to the crew from C-bus. We started the night with introducing the first timers to the boulders of HP40, they were amazed at the concentration of this southern boulder destination. We all had an early night in preparation for the full day of climbing we were committed to in the morning.

Awoken to the commotion of climbers beginning their morning routines and smell of coffee was a
pleasant start to the day. We all signed in at registration and picked up or event shirts, free swag, and comp guide books. They gathered everyone under the pavilion, went over the rules and unleashed the mob of 400+ into the boulder field. Dylan and I however decided to enter a new division the morning of. This new category was called star chaser; the idea was for us to compete by climbing the best problems in the entire field. This meant that instead of getting the points for difficulty we got the number of stars used to rate the problem. The competitor at the end of the day with the most stars was the winner. The problems could be as high as a three star classics or a pile of sand with no stars. Both Dylan and I attempt problems as hard as V5 for three stars. By the end of the day we were both spent and sore from the local classics. By then I had complete 56 problems for a total of 96 stars for 4th place.


Now there were some others in the group that managed to pull off a better day. Conan from C-bus had planned out his day a month in advance. He had a list of problems he had sent before, along with a few new ones to try and walked away with a score of 4322 to secure 2nd place. Right on his heels was another friend Eric with 4298 for third. After the second event, Conan sits in first place overall for mens intermediate, and Eric in 4th. Good work guys!

Shane, also from A-town, brought his A game along for the 9 hour car ride. He managed to rack up 2139 which was only good enough for third place, however he is sitting pretty going into the final event with 225 point lead over the guy in second place. That is a whole extra problem for his category, beginner mens.



So that being said we all have some training to do for the next event to hold our spots or advance for a win.

A write up from Dead Point Magazine can be found here. Along with a Video here, which has a couple of the Ohio crew in it.

Over all Triple Crown standings can be found here.

We have one month to get ready for our next leg of the series at Little Rock City aka Stone Fort.

Until then...

Trip Report: Emerald Send Fest

I'm just going to put this statement out there:
Emerald boulder may offer the best concentration of high quality, moderate boulder problems in Athens.
I've found one of my new favorites: "Discombobulation" V5

Anyway, last week Louis, Gunnar, Joey, Mike, Carrie and I went out for a late afternoon session. We had a good ol’ time yellin at each other and figuring out beta. Louis filled his score card by sending everything but “Crystal Shard,” and I managed to get yet a couple more new sends in before I leave town.

We started out the session with the classic slab “Snake Eyes.” Smeary feet, slopey holds and a balancy dead point make this line super fun.



After the send train left the station we moved on to “Barbs” or “Barbed Wire.” Now Louis and I tried this last spring with no luck. If I had to explain the situation last spring there would be three factors that lead to our demise: Low Traffic, Humidity and Weak Sauce. Last spring it felt like we were trying to mantle on sand castle slopers.

Regardless, Louis and I made short work of the super fun V4 this time around.

Joey in awe of the jewel










Here's a slide show of "Barbed Wire:"


Discombobulation is an awesome line. As stated before, it may be my favorite Athens 5. The creative beta and smeary feet really brought the group together trying to solve this problem. Start with high feet and manipulate the balancy slab smears and obvious holds to get purchase on the slopey top out. Lore has it that no one under 5’10 has sent it!




















Emerald Arete was quickly dispatched by Louis on this outing and he has for sure been crushing lately. His laid back attitude and climbing psych only compliment his superb spotting skillz. Spoons not forks!



We had a beautifully perfect fall day with the afternoon sun petering out leaving us with crisp send temps. It’s always a good session when a group of motivated individuals sets forth on an epic senday. So get out there and make your fingers bleed, spend a day in the woods enjoying the gorgeous east coast forests and take it all in because it’s going to be winter soon.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Climbing Shoes and Sizing

Climbing Shoes and Sizing:

The idea with this post is for users to share the climbing shoes they have owned and the size of those shoes. That away fellow climbers can view their list and use it to to help choose an appropriate sizes when purchasing new shoes. A street shoe or boot listed for reference is great too.

Leave your list as a comment for everyone to see.

Below are links to some popular shoe manufactures.
Five Ten
La Sportiva
Evolve
Mad Rock
Scrapa
Mammut


Comment Model:
Make, Model, Size (comment about the fit)

ex: Five Ten, Jet 7, 9 (tight as hell)