The Contributors

This page is dedicated to sharing a little about the individuals that have helped to share the knowledge on the Athens area climbing.  


Tim Rice

Age: 29
Nicknames: Tank, Tina, Weak-sauce
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem:  That's a tough one.
Where have you climbed: New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Coopers, HP40, RockTown, Lilly, Horseshoe Canyon, Red Rocks, Flatirons, Hound Ears
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Junior Bacon Cheese Burger - this has lead to more Athens County First Ascent then any other food group!

Jaime Rice

Age: 341 Months 
Nicknames: Courtney
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem: Trailside Arete, Silhouette, HJ in the TP
Where have you climbed: Here, there, everywhere (in the states)
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Cheese and peanut butter sandwiches and a Dr. Pepper


Dylan Proudfoot

Age: 25
Nicknames: DP
Years Climbing: Since 07
Favorite Athens County Problem: Ace in the Hole, Birds Nest
Where have you climbed: Jamaica, Yugoslavia, Telluride, Tim's Basement
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Pro Bars, Clifshots


Dustyn Whyte

Age: 22
Nicknames: D-Train
Years Climbing: 4ish
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Sunken Arete, Pot O' Gold
Where have you climbed: The Red, The New, The Adirondacks, Colorado, Rocktown, Coopers, HP4-, and other random places
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Meat Snacks


Shay Rosser

Age: 22
Nicknames: Shaysa, Rusty Blade Rosser
Years Climbing: 4
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Dope Nose, Emerald Arete, Arching Nemesis, Drew's Arete, and Breakdown.
Where have you climbed:  Athens OH, Rocktown GA, Lilly Boulders TN, Stone Fort (little rock city) TN, Horse Pins 40 AL, Hound Ears NC, Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch AK, Mount Sanitas CO, Boulder Canyon CO, Three Sisters CO, Flagstaff Mountain CO, Flat Irons CO, Telluride CO, Red River Gorge KY, New River Gorge WV.   
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Monster Energy Drink mixed with water. 

Shane West

Age: 25
Nicknames: shaney, PBR guy, dumbass
Years Climbing: 5
Favorite Athens County Problem:  brass monkey/ finger crack at witches hill
Where have you climbed: NRG RRG Red Rocks hound ears HP40 stone fort Joshua tree lake vesuvius
Favorite Climbing Fuel: send gummys (sour gummy worms)

Louis Aiden

Age: 23
Nicknames: LA, Lou the War Monger
Years Climbing: 6+
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Sunken Arete...or Pot of Gold...or anything with a heinous mantel...
Where have you climbed: The Climbing Tri-State: Athens, Coopers Rock, NRG, RRG...South: Stone Fort, Hound Ears, HP40, Rocktown, Lilly Boulders...Abroad: Bishop, Owens River Gorge, Yosemite, Lost Rocks (CA), Mammoth (CA), Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Moab, Flagstaff Mt. (CO), Three Sisters/Evergreen (CO), Boulder Canyon....Solution Rock Gym...etc.  
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Smirnoff Ice, and carrots (They Pack Well)

Jake Current

Age: 20
Nicknames: 
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed:   RRG; NRG; Index, WA; Jackson Hole, WY; Horseshoe Canyon, AR; Grand Teton, WY; Cooper's Rock, WV; Icicle Canyon, WA; and good ol' Athens
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Dark Cherry Clif Bar Shot Bloks and Monster Energy Drinks

Corey Zukie

Age: 20
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed:  RRG, NRG, Bishop, Horseshoe canyon ranch, Leavenworth, WA, Index, WA, Jackson, WY, Ten Sleep, WY, 
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  climbing films and scenery



Daniel Hermanns

Age: 19
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 1 1/2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Discombobulated
Where have you climbed: New, Red, Coopers , Athens, Chattanooga, Horsepens, Horseshoe Canyon
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Peanut Butter Sandwiches

Witches Area - Back Section

This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing traffic, due to its visibility and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulders.  The area is small but the concentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “The Crack” and “Double Down”.

The back section of Witches area is located about 100 yards past the front area, heading away from the entrance trail.  This section doesn’t contain as many problems but does contain one of the best crack problems in Athens County.

This area can sometimes and quite often see the abuse of local partyers.  You will easily see thier presence in the bottles and trash they leave behind.  This is one area I will never go barefoot.   The cave/rock shelter in the back sees most of the abuse and impact.  We often carry out extra trash and encourage you to do the same.

Parking:


From Athens:
Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and park in the pull off on the left just past it

Approach:

 Be prepared for this steep climb!
If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up to bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb, with is part of the front section of Witches.  To reach the back section continue hiking south past the front section.  The front section cliff-line will break down, hike about 300ft past this to access the back section of Witches.

Routes:

1.)     V0: SDS on sideways jugs under arete.

2.)     V1 SUS on Sloper.  Head straight up.

3.)     V1 SDS on Jugs near choss.

4.)     V2 The Skull:   SDS on jug under roof and move up through the skull that is chiseled into the rock.

5.)     V2 Bones: SUS and climb the face via crimps and edges, goes up and through the small bulge/arete.



6.)     V2 Crack Face:  SUS and climb the finger crack.  One of the best problems at witches.



7.)     V2 Rails: SUS on sloper rails and move up the face directly across from “Crack Face”



8.)     V1 SDS on a gritty rail and move straight up to a six foot topout.

9.)     V3 The Lightbringer:   Low start on bad left hand and right 2/3 finger pocket. Make a couple of desperate moves to easier climbing.

10.)     V? Project:  SUS in the Dihedral under the roof and fiqure out a way to get to the top.

11.)     V4 Proctologist:  SUS in right pocket and left rail.  Make an akward moved to reach the slimpers.

12.)     V3 Double Down:  SUS to ledge just below the boulder that perches on the edge.  Make a dyno or

 figure out how to avoid it.  Tops out on the perched boulder.

13A.)     V? SUS and climb the less then vertical face through less then quality rock.
13B.)     V? Project:  Climb the runnel/arete feature that starts above the ramp.  This line will need a heavy         cleaning.

14A.)     V?/C1  Hand Grenade:  That's right we aided this one!  Climb the left crack system with some hand jams, fist jams, funkyness and thrutching to grab the FFA!

14B.)      V? Project: Sit Down Start under the roof on the left-facing edge of the crack.  Make some powerful moves on chossy stone to reach some better holds a the lip.  Pull the bulge and continue through easy climbing.

15A.)     V? Light Show Project:  Start under the roof right of the prow on the large jug shelf.  Work left out the rail to prow, then up through the pockets for the best possible path that will lead to a send.  This line is very tall, with a slightly sloping landing, so bring several pads and a big friend to spot you.
15B.)     V? Project: Start on the same jug rail and the "Light Show Project" and work right up through the weakness.  Heading right then back left will probably yield the best possible results.
16.)       V4 Party Cave:  Located on the right side of the cave behind the small boulder that sits in the fall zone for this problem.  SUS at a jug at head height make moves out roof above boulder.  This one can be quite dirty often, brush the top out off if it has rained any lately.

Here is Danny Boy standing atop his problem "Party Cave".

Printable Over View Map - PDF

9/4/11

I did a bit of badly needed maintenance earlier this week with Daniel. We shoveled the mulch off of a couple problems that prolly haven't been climbed since tamagotchis were around. Here are a few shots...
The above problem is directly across from Swiss Cheese Face V0
This is a low start variation that stays on the right face of the Cheese block.

While these two problems have seen very few recent ascents if any, they're completely worth the visit. While out, we cleaned everything between Sunken boulder and The Font, with exception of the Broke Down Cave. Go check 'em out!

Witches Area - Front Section

This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing trafic, due to it visabilty and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulder.  The area is small but the consentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “Key Hole” and “Witches Traverse”.

Parking:

Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and parking is on the left and side just past it.

Approach:

 If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up onto bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb.  Be prepared for this steep climb.


This cluster of boulders and cliff-band is known as the front section of Witches.

Routes:

1. V? Nientendo Thumb Project: Climb the near blank arete to the top

 2. V1Climb the arete to the top.
3. V2 Castles Made of Sand: Climb the broken crack system to better holds.

4. 5.8 Climbing Class Mantel:  Easy way for some noobs to practice their manteling skills.
5.  V3 French Press:  SDS and work into a shouldery move., then reach for the top.
6. 5.6Climb the wide crack and its sides to the top.
7 V1 Balance Slab.: SUS Climb to the right of the crack and left of arete up the  slabby dihedreal.

8.V3 Thumber: SUS.  Work from start up ride side of the arete to awkward undercling then to slopey mantel.

9.V4  50 Grit:  SUS Crimps lead to large move to good edge followed by another to the amazing topout.

10. V1 Key Hole Arete:  SUS Climb the left side of the arete through a pocket to the top. (Variation 2, V2: Climb the arete with out the pocket for the “Keyless Entry”.) (Variation 3, V4 climb the face through the pocket without the arete for  “The Lock Smith”)

11, 5.7 School House Crack:  SUS Climb the esay crack system. Not Pictured

12. V1
13.   V3 Lip Traverse: SDS on jug and travel left and around the prow.
14.   V2

15. V0 Duck Bill: Mantle on the the flat feature.

16. V3 Witches Traverse:  SDS right of tree and cling to the lip as you move right to the point.

17.  V4 Drew Arete:  SDS on right side of the arete.  Make use of the limited feet, if you get off the ground you have done more then most.

18. 5.9 Pillow Fight: SUS and climb through slopers to the lip.

19. V1SUS and climb the arete to top.  Traverse into Witches Backside for something extra.

20. V4 Witches Brew.  SDS in large pocket and make move left to tiny sharp crimp pocket, move up and left and finish on 17#

21. V2 Witches Backside: SDS in large pocket and move straight up into trough like topout.  Used to be easier, but broken jugs are challenging.

22.   V4 Whale Sex: SDS on “Witches Backside” and move right after second hold, move across slimpers and other trash to reach a weakness in the topout.

23. V-Fun: Climb the slab with no hands, knees are cheating too!

24. V0 Prego In A Dress: SUS on the right and traverse to the other side.

25. V? Low Blow Joe Project Mantle:  SDS on  Low Ball and mantle on small block

Printable Overview Map - PDF

Shoes for a "Little Foot"

So both my wife and I are climbers, this is something that we enjoy very much and it is even how we meet.  Now that we have had children, we don't plan to stop climbing, we plan to share our passion for the outdoors with our children. If you have ever seen our kids you know they small, extra small, most commercially produced gear wont fit our kids.

 The above shoes were what we chose to be the first pair of shoes that our daughter would use for her climbing adventures.  They were a pair of leather shoes that we had already had.  Izzy had worn them a couple of times, and had climbed with just the plain soles a few times in the basement.  We wanted to make sure that we had a good fit prior to enhancing them.
Baby shoes from Target


Above photo is the project shoes along with a larger size then we were thinking about doing at the same time. The box in the back ground is Five Ten's "Stealth Paint", at the time it had just come onto the market.  We planned to add stealth rubber to the shoes, making a pair of climbing shoes that would fit our daughters little feet.

Stealth Paint

The shoes had been worn a little already by Izzy.  I  cleaned
the dirt and dust of with some denatured alcohol prior to beginning

In this photo I am applying the coat of rubber contact cement to the leather bottom of the shoe.  The glass rod is the applicator that came with the kit.  The cement was "Barge" brand and also included in the kit also.

 

Here is the shoe drying.  The contact cement needed to dry completely before the next process could be applied.

 

Mixing the Barge cement into the stealth rubber shavings.  Following the mixology directions listed in the kit.

 

Rubber and cement ready to go!

Begining to apply the rubber/cement mix to the contact cement ready shoe.

You have to use the glass rod applicator provided to apply the sticky mixture.  This process was tedious and time consuming.  You have to dab the mixture onto the shoe, then roll it down onto the leather sole, like using a baking pen.  Rolling it back and forth with a firm pressure was key.  Also note that the shoes are stuffed with paper to give them a solid profile, allowing easier application.

Here is the finished product minutes after applying and smoothing the final coat.  We allowed a full 24 hours before allowing Izzy to sample them.









Below is a photo of Izzy testing her newly enhanced kicks on the bullet hard sandstone of new river gorge.  She is warming up on Dad's project!



If you have any other questions about the process, don't hesitate to ask.

Athens Climbing Lives!

This page has been neglected, but the rock still stands and the climbers still pull down.  Fall is about to hit and that means a whole new wave of students, and the return of sending temps.

As most people know, our fearless leader (Tina)  headed to those hills out west, which means maybe now someone will let the secret out about all those projects and they can finally be sent.... but maybe not. 

If you're new to the area and you don't know where to start, I recommend a nice walk down the rockhouse trail, chances are you'll see some of the Athens veterans out brushing the sand and moss off the holds getting their re-sends of the classics (if they aren't still squating in old climber hangouts drinking thier PBR's and talking about how they're too tired and it's too hot to climb), or at least you'll get a feel for what this little bubble town has to offer. 

Hopefully there is more news to come, so stay tuned

Breakdown Brokedown

Breakdown cave lived up to it's name today, the key right hand crimp is no more.  Me, Jake, and a handful of OU kids took our weekly bouldering trip today and found ourselves at the breakdown cave.  After tearing a nice flapper earlier I settled in to watch the others pull down on this classic, Jake was showing the beta when BOOM the crimp blew.  Look what he did, the little jerk-

Somebody get out there and get the send before old Tim-dog has a chance!  The grade has definitely been up'd, good luck!