Witches Area - Back Section

This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing traffic, due to its visibility and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulders.  The area is small but the concentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “The Crack” and “Double Down”.

The back section of Witches area is located about 100 yards past the front area, heading away from the entrance trail.  This section doesn’t contain as many problems but does contain one of the best crack problems in Athens County.

This area can sometimes and quite often see the abuse of local partyers.  You will easily see thier presence in the bottles and trash they leave behind.  This is one area I will never go barefoot.   The cave/rock shelter in the back sees most of the abuse and impact.  We often carry out extra trash and encourage you to do the same.

Parking:


From Athens:
Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and park in the pull off on the left just past it

Approach:

 Be prepared for this steep climb!
If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up to bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb, with is part of the front section of Witches.  To reach the back section continue hiking south past the front section.  The front section cliff-line will break down, hike about 300ft past this to access the back section of Witches.

Routes:

1.)     V0: SDS on sideways jugs under arete.

2.)     V1 SUS on Sloper.  Head straight up.

3.)     V1 SDS on Jugs near choss.

4.)     V2 The Skull:   SDS on jug under roof and move up through the skull that is chiseled into the rock.

5.)     V2 Bones: SUS and climb the face via crimps and edges, goes up and through the small bulge/arete.



6.)     V2 Crack Face:  SUS and climb the finger crack.  One of the best problems at witches.



7.)     V2 Rails: SUS on sloper rails and move up the face directly across from “Crack Face”



8.)     V1 SDS on a gritty rail and move straight up to a six foot topout.

9.)     V3 The Lightbringer:   Low start on bad left hand and right 2/3 finger pocket. Make a couple of desperate moves to easier climbing.

10.)     V? Project:  SUS in the Dihedral under the roof and fiqure out a way to get to the top.

11.)     V4 Proctologist:  SUS in right pocket and left rail.  Make an akward moved to reach the slimpers.

12.)     V3 Double Down:  SUS to ledge just below the boulder that perches on the edge.  Make a dyno or

 figure out how to avoid it.  Tops out on the perched boulder.

13A.)     V? SUS and climb the less then vertical face through less then quality rock.
13B.)     V? Project:  Climb the runnel/arete feature that starts above the ramp.  This line will need a heavy         cleaning.

14A.)     V?/C1  Hand Grenade:  That's right we aided this one!  Climb the left crack system with some hand jams, fist jams, funkyness and thrutching to grab the FFA!

14B.)      V? Project: Sit Down Start under the roof on the left-facing edge of the crack.  Make some powerful moves on chossy stone to reach some better holds a the lip.  Pull the bulge and continue through easy climbing.

15A.)     V? Light Show Project:  Start under the roof right of the prow on the large jug shelf.  Work left out the rail to prow, then up through the pockets for the best possible path that will lead to a send.  This line is very tall, with a slightly sloping landing, so bring several pads and a big friend to spot you.
15B.)     V? Project: Start on the same jug rail and the "Light Show Project" and work right up through the weakness.  Heading right then back left will probably yield the best possible results.
16.)       V4 Party Cave:  Located on the right side of the cave behind the small boulder that sits in the fall zone for this problem.  SUS at a jug at head height make moves out roof above boulder.  This one can be quite dirty often, brush the top out off if it has rained any lately.

Here is Danny Boy standing atop his problem "Party Cave".

Printable Over View Map - PDF

9/4/11

I did a bit of badly needed maintenance earlier this week with Daniel. We shoveled the mulch off of a couple problems that prolly haven't been climbed since tamagotchis were around. Here are a few shots...
The above problem is directly across from Swiss Cheese Face V0
This is a low start variation that stays on the right face of the Cheese block.

While these two problems have seen very few recent ascents if any, they're completely worth the visit. While out, we cleaned everything between Sunken boulder and The Font, with exception of the Broke Down Cave. Go check 'em out!

Witches Area - Front Section

This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing trafic, due to it visabilty and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulder.  The area is small but the consentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “Key Hole” and “Witches Traverse”.

Parking:

Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and parking is on the left and side just past it.

Approach:

 If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up onto bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb.  Be prepared for this steep climb.


This cluster of boulders and cliff-band is known as the front section of Witches.

Routes:

1. V? Nientendo Thumb Project: Climb the near blank arete to the top

 2. V1Climb the arete to the top.
3. V2 Castles Made of Sand: Climb the broken crack system to better holds.

4. 5.8 Climbing Class Mantel:  Easy way for some noobs to practice their manteling skills.
5.  V3 French Press:  SDS and work into a shouldery move., then reach for the top.
6. 5.6Climb the wide crack and its sides to the top.
7 V1 Balance Slab.: SUS Climb to the right of the crack and left of arete up the  slabby dihedreal.

8.V3 Thumber: SUS.  Work from start up ride side of the arete to awkward undercling then to slopey mantel.

9.V4  50 Grit:  SUS Crimps lead to large move to good edge followed by another to the amazing topout.

10. V1 Key Hole Arete:  SUS Climb the left side of the arete through a pocket to the top. (Variation 2, V2: Climb the arete with out the pocket for the “Keyless Entry”.) (Variation 3, V4 climb the face through the pocket without the arete for  “The Lock Smith”)

11, 5.7 School House Crack:  SUS Climb the esay crack system. Not Pictured

12. V1
13.   V3 Lip Traverse: SDS on jug and travel left and around the prow.
14.   V2

15. V0 Duck Bill: Mantle on the the flat feature.

16. V3 Witches Traverse:  SDS right of tree and cling to the lip as you move right to the point.

17.  V4 Drew Arete:  SDS on right side of the arete.  Make use of the limited feet, if you get off the ground you have done more then most.

18. 5.9 Pillow Fight: SUS and climb through slopers to the lip.

19. V1SUS and climb the arete to top.  Traverse into Witches Backside for something extra.

20. V4 Witches Brew.  SDS in large pocket and make move left to tiny sharp crimp pocket, move up and left and finish on 17#

21. V2 Witches Backside: SDS in large pocket and move straight up into trough like topout.  Used to be easier, but broken jugs are challenging.

22.   V4 Whale Sex: SDS on “Witches Backside” and move right after second hold, move across slimpers and other trash to reach a weakness in the topout.

23. V-Fun: Climb the slab with no hands, knees are cheating too!

24. V0 Prego In A Dress: SUS on the right and traverse to the other side.

25. V? Low Blow Joe Project Mantle:  SDS on  Low Ball and mantle on small block

Printable Overview Map - PDF