Southern Deployment

With winter, along comes the want to stretch the season. To pinch out a few more days, and escape the gray sky often looming above Ohio. Not to mention a six week winter break for O.U. students, the last of the 6 week gaps, ever to exist, ever. Seems like a good enough reason to justify the ~12 hour drive to the Deep South.
After bouncing around the states with Daniel, the weather in Rocktown straightened itself out and we met up with the O.U.O.P. crew piloted by Dustyn and Tailor, with a slew of enthusiasts not to be forgotten. With our reunion came days of sunshine and mornings full of hood remixtures and gangsta' rap.

Part One: "So You Want a Woodie"!

A former Athenian sent a question to a few fellow climbers.  His message is posted below:


Help/input needed!

I'm looking to build a woody in my apartment's spare bedroom. Since you guys are seasoned pros at building these hopefully you can help.

I have a space aprox 8'W x 11'L x 9'H to work with. Only condition is it must be free standing, can't mount to any walls or ceiling.

Looking at grabbing the SoIll Bolt-On starter pack to get started.

Looking at a design similar to this:
http://imgur.com/W69a6

Thoughts? Must haves?

Cheers!
Nate




So, since receiving his email it reignited my interest to add a home wall section to the blog.

After thinking about the topic for a bit I came up with a few questions you will need to ask yourself before beginning your home wall.

• What are my construction capabilities?
• How big is the space you have to work with?
• Can I mount to existing Structures?
• Will the floor structure carry the weight of my Woodie?
• Who is the user group for my woodie?
• What type of budget to I have to work with?

This is just a starting list that will probably grow as we continue this project.

As part of this project I will be constructing a new woodie in my garage.  I will try to document the project as much as possible.

I know this is already posted under the "Home Walls" page.  But I am going to be posting them as blog entries and pasting them under the home walls section too.  I will also link all comments to the page section too.  Let me know if you have any comments on the article, I plan to update the previous articles if people have suggestion for home wall construction. -Thanks, Tim.

Arching Nemesis Project Goes

The Arching Nemesis Project at the Superman Area just went down!  More info to come.

V10 in the House

Athens County has now got it's first V10. One of the projects up at the Lions Wall went down.  "King Scar" was the project on the right most side of the wall, that climbed a slightly overhung face through crimps and slopers to the top.

Here is what the first ascentionist, Aaron Schneider had to say about it from his 8a card:
"Hard DESPERATE. Lurched to the last hold and managed to snag it off the heinous slopers. So psyched to put this one down. First double digit line (that I'm aware of) in Ohio, and a HARD 7C+ at that. Awesome Athen's crew to get me psyched. More lines to go."




I know it's not the first double digit line in Ohio, but it is the first for Athens.  They have a video of both the new lines which they should be posting soon.

Whats between you and the ground?

When I think about Misery, a cheesy horror film from the 90's in which Kathy Bates demolishes the some guy's ankles with a 4x4 and a sledgehammer, I get a little bit sick. Think about it next time your beaching yourself on the topout of “Pot-O-Gold” or praying to God /Allah/Xenu that your heel doesn't pop at the top of “50 Grit”. If you're climbing on a cheap crashpad, its akin to allowing a sub par actor who's career is slowly dying with Two and a Half Men go to town on your ankles with a mallet. As climbers, we live and die by our gear. You wouldn't climb on a rope you knew was sub par, just as you wouldn't rack cams that have seen two too many falls. Why climb above a crashpad that is made with cheap foam, sub-par nylon and carelessness towards construction?

Recently, there's been a movement among boulderers to hold their crashpads to the same standards as they hold their harnesses and ropes, we want the best. While the larger companies churn out 'budget' pads, the guys at outfits like Organic and Revolution strive to be the best. I came to the realization recently that I was climbing above a junk pad, and decided to invest in a new, bulletproof mat. I began my search and arrived at Revolution and Organic, first and foremost because of the standards they hold themselves to. Revolution has been making cutting edge bouldering gear for over a decade, and Organic is making a name for themselves as master craftsmen of fine bouldering gear. Both are made in the U.S of A by Americans, and are used by some of the strongest climbers our country has produced.

The Revolution Supreme:

New for 2011, The Supreme is Revolutions new flagship model. With a host of new features and a new design, the Supreme is sure to please. I originally had my heart set on this pad, but a backordering issue gave me cause to look elsewhere. If you can get your calloused fingers on one, call me, I want to fall on it.

The Organic Full Pad:

With top of the line construction, top of the line materials, and top of the line bad ass-ery, the Organic Full Pad is the the new industry standard. With the ability to make colorful custom pads, you can have a pad that suits your tastes and will surely impress all the crag honeys. Made lovingly just a hop and a skip across the Mid West in Pennsylvania, the close proximity means fast shipping, AKA instant gratification. After the back ordering flub with Revolution, I sent an email to Josh Helke at Organic and had an order placed before I even really realized what was going on. A week and a half later, the biggest box my RA had ever seen shipped to a dorm arrived, and inside was bouldering salvation. After a few days of just wearing the pad around the dorm (stupid rain), I got my chance to try it for real. Let me tell you, never have I been happier to come cartwheeling off some lichen ridden choss pile. Not only does the Organic Full pad catch a fall, it envelops a falling climbers body in a perfect balance of firmness and cushion-y softness. Nothing inspires more confidence 20 feet off the deck than an Organic pad placed below. The Full pad also comes with a dandy pouch where you can toss other bouldering essentials like brushes and clif bars.

I know your thinking- “But Daniel, these pads cost upwards of 230 dollars, Ill never be able to afford that!” To which I'll say “If you'd only cancel your subscription to Weaksause magazine and sell your Gilmore Girls DVD collection...” Seriously folks, do yourself and your ankles a favor, give the good folks at Revolution and Organic a call, they'll treat you real nice like...

The Contributors

This page is dedicated to sharing a little about the individuals that have helped to share the knowledge on the Athens area climbing.  


Tim Rice

Age: 29
Nicknames: Tank, Tina, Weak-sauce
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem:  That's a tough one.
Where have you climbed: New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Coopers, HP40, RockTown, Lilly, Horseshoe Canyon, Red Rocks, Flatirons, Hound Ears
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Junior Bacon Cheese Burger - this has lead to more Athens County First Ascent then any other food group!

Jaime Rice

Age: 341 Months 
Nicknames: Courtney
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem: Trailside Arete, Silhouette, HJ in the TP
Where have you climbed: Here, there, everywhere (in the states)
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Cheese and peanut butter sandwiches and a Dr. Pepper


Dylan Proudfoot

Age: 25
Nicknames: DP
Years Climbing: Since 07
Favorite Athens County Problem: Ace in the Hole, Birds Nest
Where have you climbed: Jamaica, Yugoslavia, Telluride, Tim's Basement
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Pro Bars, Clifshots


Dustyn Whyte

Age: 22
Nicknames: D-Train
Years Climbing: 4ish
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Sunken Arete, Pot O' Gold
Where have you climbed: The Red, The New, The Adirondacks, Colorado, Rocktown, Coopers, HP4-, and other random places
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Meat Snacks


Shay Rosser

Age: 22
Nicknames: Shaysa, Rusty Blade Rosser
Years Climbing: 4
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Dope Nose, Emerald Arete, Arching Nemesis, Drew's Arete, and Breakdown.
Where have you climbed:  Athens OH, Rocktown GA, Lilly Boulders TN, Stone Fort (little rock city) TN, Horse Pins 40 AL, Hound Ears NC, Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch AK, Mount Sanitas CO, Boulder Canyon CO, Three Sisters CO, Flagstaff Mountain CO, Flat Irons CO, Telluride CO, Red River Gorge KY, New River Gorge WV.   
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Monster Energy Drink mixed with water. 

Shane West

Age: 25
Nicknames: shaney, PBR guy, dumbass
Years Climbing: 5
Favorite Athens County Problem:  brass monkey/ finger crack at witches hill
Where have you climbed: NRG RRG Red Rocks hound ears HP40 stone fort Joshua tree lake vesuvius
Favorite Climbing Fuel: send gummys (sour gummy worms)

Louis Aiden

Age: 23
Nicknames: LA, Lou the War Monger
Years Climbing: 6+
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Sunken Arete...or Pot of Gold...or anything with a heinous mantel...
Where have you climbed: The Climbing Tri-State: Athens, Coopers Rock, NRG, RRG...South: Stone Fort, Hound Ears, HP40, Rocktown, Lilly Boulders...Abroad: Bishop, Owens River Gorge, Yosemite, Lost Rocks (CA), Mammoth (CA), Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Moab, Flagstaff Mt. (CO), Three Sisters/Evergreen (CO), Boulder Canyon....Solution Rock Gym...etc.  
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Smirnoff Ice, and carrots (They Pack Well)

Jake Current

Age: 20
Nicknames: 
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed:   RRG; NRG; Index, WA; Jackson Hole, WY; Horseshoe Canyon, AR; Grand Teton, WY; Cooper's Rock, WV; Icicle Canyon, WA; and good ol' Athens
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Dark Cherry Clif Bar Shot Bloks and Monster Energy Drinks

Corey Zukie

Age: 20
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed:  RRG, NRG, Bishop, Horseshoe canyon ranch, Leavenworth, WA, Index, WA, Jackson, WY, Ten Sleep, WY, 
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  climbing films and scenery



Daniel Hermanns

Age: 19
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 1 1/2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Discombobulated
Where have you climbed: New, Red, Coopers , Athens, Chattanooga, Horsepens, Horseshoe Canyon
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Peanut Butter Sandwiches

Witches Area - Back Section

This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing traffic, due to its visibility and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulders.  The area is small but the concentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “The Crack” and “Double Down”.

The back section of Witches area is located about 100 yards past the front area, heading away from the entrance trail.  This section doesn’t contain as many problems but does contain one of the best crack problems in Athens County.

This area can sometimes and quite often see the abuse of local partyers.  You will easily see thier presence in the bottles and trash they leave behind.  This is one area I will never go barefoot.   The cave/rock shelter in the back sees most of the abuse and impact.  We often carry out extra trash and encourage you to do the same.

Parking:


From Athens:
Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and park in the pull off on the left just past it

Approach:

 Be prepared for this steep climb!
If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up to bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb, with is part of the front section of Witches.  To reach the back section continue hiking south past the front section.  The front section cliff-line will break down, hike about 300ft past this to access the back section of Witches.

Routes:

1.)     V0: SDS on sideways jugs under arete.

2.)     V1 SUS on Sloper.  Head straight up.

3.)     V1 SDS on Jugs near choss.

4.)     V2 The Skull:   SDS on jug under roof and move up through the skull that is chiseled into the rock.

5.)     V2 Bones: SUS and climb the face via crimps and edges, goes up and through the small bulge/arete.



6.)     V2 Crack Face:  SUS and climb the finger crack.  One of the best problems at witches.



7.)     V2 Rails: SUS on sloper rails and move up the face directly across from “Crack Face”



8.)     V1 SDS on a gritty rail and move straight up to a six foot topout.

9.)     V3 The Lightbringer:   Low start on bad left hand and right 2/3 finger pocket. Make a couple of desperate moves to easier climbing.

10.)     V? Project:  SUS in the Dihedral under the roof and fiqure out a way to get to the top.

11.)     V4 Proctologist:  SUS in right pocket and left rail.  Make an akward moved to reach the slimpers.

12.)     V3 Double Down:  SUS to ledge just below the boulder that perches on the edge.  Make a dyno or

 figure out how to avoid it.  Tops out on the perched boulder.

13A.)     V? SUS and climb the less then vertical face through less then quality rock.
13B.)     V? Project:  Climb the runnel/arete feature that starts above the ramp.  This line will need a heavy         cleaning.

14A.)     V?/C1  Hand Grenade:  That's right we aided this one!  Climb the left crack system with some hand jams, fist jams, funkyness and thrutching to grab the FFA!

14B.)      V? Project: Sit Down Start under the roof on the left-facing edge of the crack.  Make some powerful moves on chossy stone to reach some better holds a the lip.  Pull the bulge and continue through easy climbing.

15A.)     V? Light Show Project:  Start under the roof right of the prow on the large jug shelf.  Work left out the rail to prow, then up through the pockets for the best possible path that will lead to a send.  This line is very tall, with a slightly sloping landing, so bring several pads and a big friend to spot you.
15B.)     V? Project: Start on the same jug rail and the "Light Show Project" and work right up through the weakness.  Heading right then back left will probably yield the best possible results.
16.)       V4 Party Cave:  Located on the right side of the cave behind the small boulder that sits in the fall zone for this problem.  SUS at a jug at head height make moves out roof above boulder.  This one can be quite dirty often, brush the top out off if it has rained any lately.

Here is Danny Boy standing atop his problem "Party Cave".

Printable Over View Map - PDF

9/4/11

I did a bit of badly needed maintenance earlier this week with Daniel. We shoveled the mulch off of a couple problems that prolly haven't been climbed since tamagotchis were around. Here are a few shots...
The above problem is directly across from Swiss Cheese Face V0
This is a low start variation that stays on the right face of the Cheese block.

While these two problems have seen very few recent ascents if any, they're completely worth the visit. While out, we cleaned everything between Sunken boulder and The Font, with exception of the Broke Down Cave. Go check 'em out!

Witches Area - Front Section

This area has been around and known for awhile.  It holds some of the earliest climbing trafic, due to it visabilty and location from Ohio University’s campus.  The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county.  There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulder.  The area is small but the consentration makes up for it.  Contains classics such as; “Key Hole” and “Witches Traverse”.

Parking:

Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33.  Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate.  Go under the over pass and parking is on the left and side just past it.

Approach:

 If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up onto bong hill.  To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert.  Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods.  The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb.  Be prepared for this steep climb.


This cluster of boulders and cliff-band is known as the front section of Witches.

Routes:

1. V? Nientendo Thumb Project: Climb the near blank arete to the top

 2. V1Climb the arete to the top.
3. V2 Castles Made of Sand: Climb the broken crack system to better holds.

4. 5.8 Climbing Class Mantel:  Easy way for some noobs to practice their manteling skills.
5.  V3 French Press:  SDS and work into a shouldery move., then reach for the top.
6. 5.6Climb the wide crack and its sides to the top.
7 V1 Balance Slab.: SUS Climb to the right of the crack and left of arete up the  slabby dihedreal.

8.V3 Thumber: SUS.  Work from start up ride side of the arete to awkward undercling then to slopey mantel.

9.V4  50 Grit:  SUS Crimps lead to large move to good edge followed by another to the amazing topout.

10. V1 Key Hole Arete:  SUS Climb the left side of the arete through a pocket to the top. (Variation 2, V2: Climb the arete with out the pocket for the “Keyless Entry”.) (Variation 3, V4 climb the face through the pocket without the arete for  “The Lock Smith”)

11, 5.7 School House Crack:  SUS Climb the esay crack system. Not Pictured

12. V1
13.   V3 Lip Traverse: SDS on jug and travel left and around the prow.
14.   V2

15. V0 Duck Bill: Mantle on the the flat feature.

16. V3 Witches Traverse:  SDS right of tree and cling to the lip as you move right to the point.

17.  V4 Drew Arete:  SDS on right side of the arete.  Make use of the limited feet, if you get off the ground you have done more then most.

18. 5.9 Pillow Fight: SUS and climb through slopers to the lip.

19. V1SUS and climb the arete to top.  Traverse into Witches Backside for something extra.

20. V4 Witches Brew.  SDS in large pocket and make move left to tiny sharp crimp pocket, move up and left and finish on 17#

21. V2 Witches Backside: SDS in large pocket and move straight up into trough like topout.  Used to be easier, but broken jugs are challenging.

22.   V4 Whale Sex: SDS on “Witches Backside” and move right after second hold, move across slimpers and other trash to reach a weakness in the topout.

23. V-Fun: Climb the slab with no hands, knees are cheating too!

24. V0 Prego In A Dress: SUS on the right and traverse to the other side.

25. V? Low Blow Joe Project Mantle:  SDS on  Low Ball and mantle on small block

Printable Overview Map - PDF