Athens Bouldering

February Climbing!

2012-02-03T17:32:00.000-08:00

Hey all! This past weekend I saw several people taking advantage of this amazing unusually warm weather, and although birds nest still might not be dry for another few seasons there is still plenty of sending going on including a plethora of FA's. With OU and Hocking's comp's just around the corner get yourself outside, enjoy the amazing weather and train your face off so you can win some sweet stuff at these comps!

Southern Deployment

2011-12-07T08:37:00.000-08:00

With winter, along comes the want to stretch the season. To pinch out a few more days, and escape the gray sky often looming above Ohio. Not to mention a six week winter break for O.U. students, the last of the 6 week gaps, ever to exist, ever. Seems like a good enough reason to justify the ~12 hour drive to the Deep South.
After bouncing around the states with Daniel, the weather in Rocktown straightened itself out and we met up with the O.U.O.P. crew piloted by Dustyn and Tailor, with a slew of enthusiasts not to be forgotten. With our reunion came days of sunshine and mornings full of hood remixtures and gangsta' rap.

Part One: "So You Want a Woodie"!

2011-11-04T10:06:00.000-07:00

A former Athenian sent a question to a few fellow climbers. His message is posted below:

Help/input needed!

I'm looking to build a woody in my apartment's spare bedroom. Since you guys are seasoned pros at building these hopefully you can help.

I have a space aprox 8'W x 11'L x 9'H to work with. Only condition is it must be free standing, can't mount to any walls or ceiling.

Looking at grabbing the SoIll Bolt-On starter pack to get started.

Looking at a design similar to this:
http://imgur.com/W69a6

Thoughts? Must haves?

Cheers!
Nate

So, since receiving his email it reignited my interest to add a home wall section to the blog.

After thinking about the topic for a bit I came up with a few questions you will need to ask yourself before beginning your home wall.

What are my construction capabilities?
How big is the space you have to work with?

Can I mount to existing Structures?
Will the floor structure carry the weight of my Woodie?

Who is the user group for my woodie?
What type of budget to I have to work with?

This is just a starting list that will probably grow as we continue this project.

As part of this project I will be constructing a new woodie in my garage. I will try to document the project as much as possible.

I know this is already posted under the "Home Walls" page. But I am going to be posting them as blog entries and pasting them under the home walls section too. I will also link all comments to the page section too. Let me know if you have any comments on the article, I plan to update the previous articles if people have suggestion for home wall construction. -Thanks, Tim.

Arching Nemesis Project Goes

2011-11-02T15:05:00.000-07:00

The Arching Nemesis Project at the Superman Area just went down! More info to come.

V10 in the House

2011-10-24T13:40:00.000-07:00

Athens County has now got it's first V10. One of the projects up at the Lions Wall went down. "King Scar" was the project on the right most side of the wall, that climbed a slightly overhung face through crimps and slopers to the top.

Here is what the first ascentionist, Aaron Schneider had to say about it from his 8a card:
"Hard DESPERATE. Lurched to the last hold and managed to snag it off the heinous slopers. So psyched to put this one down. First double digit line (that I'm aware of) in Ohio, and a HARD 7C+ at that. Awesome Athen's crew to get me psyched. More lines to go."

I know it's not the first double digit line in Ohio, but it is the first for Athens. They have a video of both the new lines which they should be posting soon.

Whats between you and the ground?

2011-10-02T18:00:00.000-07:00

When I think about Misery, a cheesy horror film from the 90's in which Kathy Bates demolishes the some guy's ankles with a 4x4 and a sledgehammer, I get a little bit sick. Think about it next time your beaching yourself on the topout of “Pot-O-Gold” or praying to God /Allah/Xenu that your heel doesn't pop at the top of “50 Grit”. If you're climbing on a cheap crashpad, its akin to allowing a sub par actor who's career is slowly dying with Two and a Half Men go to town on your ankles with a mallet. As climbers, we live and die by our gear. You wouldn't climb on a rope you knew was sub par, just as you wouldn't rack cams that have seen two too many falls. Why climb above a crashpad that is made with cheap foam, sub-par nylon and carelessness towards construction?

Recently, there's been a movement among boulderers to hold their crashpads to the same standards as they hold their harnesses and ropes, we want the best. While the larger companies churn out 'budget' pads, the guys at outfits like Organic and Revolution strive to be the best. I came to the realization recently that I was climbing above a junk pad, and decided to invest in a new, bulletproof mat. I began my search and arrived at Revolution and Organic, first and foremost because of the standards they hold themselves to. Revolution has been making cutting edge bouldering gear for over a decade, and Organic is making a name for themselves as master craftsmen of fine bouldering gear. Both are made in the U.S of A by Americans, and are used by some of the strongest climbers our country has produced.

The Revolution Supreme:

New for 2011, The Supreme is Revolutions new flagship model. With a host of new features and a new design, the Supreme is sure to please. I originally had my heart set on this pad, but a backordering issue gave me cause to look elsewhere. If you can get your calloused fingers on one, call me, I want to fall on it.

The Organic Full Pad:

With top of the line construction, top of the line materials, and top of the line bad ass-ery, the Organic Full Pad is the the new industry standard. With the ability to make colorful custom pads, you can have a pad that suits your tastes and will surely impress all the crag honeys. Made lovingly just a hop and a skip across the Mid West in Pennsylvania, the close proximity means fast shipping, AKA instant gratification. After the back ordering flub with Revolution, I sent an email to Josh Helke at Organic and had an order placed before I even really realized what was going on. A week and a half later, the biggest box my RA had ever seen shipped to a dorm arrived, and inside was bouldering salvation. After a few days of just wearing the pad around the dorm (stupid rain), I got my chance to try it for real. Let me tell you, never have I been happier to come cartwheeling off some lichen ridden choss pile. Not only does the Organic Full pad catch a fall, it envelops a falling climbers body in a perfect balance of firmness and cushion-y softness. Nothing inspires more confidence 20 feet off the deck than an Organic pad placed below. The Full pad also comes with a dandy pouch where you can toss other bouldering essentials like brushes and clif bars.

I know your thinking- “But Daniel, these pads cost upwards of 230 dollars, Ill never be able to afford that!” To which I'll say “If you'd only cancel your subscription to Weaksause magazine and sell your Gilmore Girls DVD collection...” Seriously folks, do yourself and your ankles a favor, give the good folks at Revolution and Organic a call, they'll treat you real nice like...

The Contributors

2011-10-01T13:47:00.000-07:00

This page is dedicated to sharing a little about the individuals that have helped to share the knowledge on the Athens area climbing.

Tim Rice

Age: 29
Nicknames: Tank, Tina, Weak-sauce
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem: That's a tough one.
Where have you climbed: New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Coopers, HP40, RockTown, Lilly, Horseshoe Canyon, Red Rocks, Flatirons, Hound Ears
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Junior Bacon Cheese Burger - this has lead to more Athens County First Ascent then any other food group!

Jaime Rice

Age: 341 Months
Nicknames: Courtney
Years Climbing: 10 years
Favorite Athens County Problem: Trailside Arete, Silhouette, HJ in the TP
Where have you climbed: Here, there, everywhere (in the states)
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Cheese and peanut butter sandwiches and a Dr. Pepper

Dylan Proudfoot

Age: 25
Nicknames: DP
Years Climbing: Since 07
Favorite Athens County Problem: Ace in the Hole, Birds Nest
Where have you climbed: Jamaica, Yugoslavia, Telluride, Tim's Basement
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Pro Bars, Clifshots

Dustyn Whyte

Age: 22
Nicknames: D-Train
Years Climbing: 4ish
Favorite Athens County Problem: Sunken Arete, Pot O' Gold
Where have you climbed: The Red, The New, The Adirondacks, Colorado, Rocktown, Coopers, HP4-, and other random places
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Meat Snacks

Shay Rosser

Age: 22
Nicknames: Shaysa, Rusty Blade Rosser
Years Climbing: 4
Favorite Athens County Problem:  Dope Nose, Emerald Arete, Arching Nemesis, Drew's Arete, and Breakdown.
Where have you climbed:  Athens OH, Rocktown GA, Lilly Boulders TN, Stone Fort (little rock city) TN, Horse Pins 40 AL, Hound Ears NC, Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch AK, Mount Sanitas CO, Boulder Canyon CO, Three Sisters CO, Flagstaff Mountain CO, Flat Irons CO, Telluride CO, Red River Gorge KY, New River Gorge WV.
Favorite Climbing Fuel:  Monster Energy Drink mixed with water.

Shane West

Age: 25
Nicknames: shaney, PBR guy, dumbass
Years Climbing: 5
Favorite Athens County Problem: brass monkey/ finger crack at witches hill
Where have you climbed: NRG RRG Red Rocks hound ears HP40 stone fort Joshua tree lake vesuvius
Favorite Climbing Fuel: send gummys (sour gummy worms)

Louis Aiden

Age: 23
Nicknames: LA, Lou the War Monger
Years Climbing: 6+
Favorite Athens County Problem: Sunken Arete...or Pot of Gold...or anything with a heinous mantel...
Where have you climbed: The Climbing Tri-State: Athens, Coopers Rock, NRG, RRG...South: Stone Fort, Hound Ears, HP40, Rocktown, Lilly Boulders...Abroad: Bishop, Owens River Gorge, Yosemite, Lost Rocks (CA), Mammoth (CA), Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Moab, Flagstaff Mt. (CO), Three Sisters/Evergreen (CO), Boulder Canyon....Solution Rock Gym...etc.
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Smirnoff Ice, and carrots (They Pack Well)

Jake Current

Age: 20
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed: RRG; NRG; Index, WA; Jackson Hole, WY; Horseshoe Canyon, AR; Grand Teton, WY; Cooper's Rock, WV; Icicle Canyon, WA; and good ol' Athens
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Dark Cherry Clif Bar Shot Bloks and Monster Energy Drinks

Corey Zukie

Age: 20
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Fire in the Hole
Where have you climbed: RRG, NRG, Bishop, Horseshoe canyon ranch, Leavenworth, WA, Index, WA, Jackson, WY, Ten Sleep, WY,
Favorite Climbing Fuel: climbing films and scenery

Daniel Hermanns

Age: 19
Nicknames:
Years Climbing: 1 1/2
Favorite Athens County Problem: Discombobulated
Where have you climbed: New, Red, Coopers , Athens, Chattanooga, Horsepens, Horseshoe Canyon
Favorite Climbing Fuel: Peanut Butter Sandwiches

Witches Area - Back Section

2011-09-12T21:31:00.000-07:00

This area has been around and known for awhile. It holds some of the earliest climbing traffic, due to its visibility and location from Ohio University’s campus. The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county. There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulders. The area is small but the concentration makes up for it. Contains classics such as; “The Crack” and “Double Down”.

The back section of Witches area is located about 100 yards past the front area, heading away from the entrance trail. This section doesn’t contain as many problems but does contain one of the best crack problems in Athens County.

This area can sometimes and quite often see the abuse of local partyers. You will easily see thier presence in the bottles and trash they leave behind. This is one area I will never go barefoot. The cave/rock shelter in the back sees most of the abuse and impact. We often carry out extra trash and encourage you to do the same.

Parking:

From Athens:
Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33. Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate. Go under the over pass and park in the pull off on the left just past it

Approach:

Be prepared for this steep climb!
If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up to bong hill. To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert. Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods. The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb, with is part of the front section of Witches. To reach the back section continue hiking south past the front section. The front section cliff-line will break down, hike about 300ft past this to access the back section of Witches.

Routes:

1.) V0: SDS on sideways jugs under arete.

2.) V1 SUS on Sloper. Head straight up.

3.) V1 SDS on Jugs near choss.

4.) V2 The Skull: SDS on jug under roof and move up through the skull that is chiseled into the rock.

5.) V2 Bones: SUS and climb the face via crimps and edges, goes up and through the small bulge/arete.

6.) V2 Crack Face: SUS and climb the finger crack. One of the best problems at witches.

7.) V2 Rails: SUS on sloper rails and move up the face directly across from “Crack Face”

8.) V1 SDS on a gritty rail and move straight up to a six foot topout.

9.) V3 The Lightbringer: Low start on bad left hand and right 2/3 finger pocket. Make a couple of desperate moves to easier climbing.

10.) V? Project: SUS in the Dihedral under the roof and fiqure out a way to get to the top.

11.) V4 Proctologist: SUS in right pocket and left rail. Make an akward moved to reach the slimpers.

12.) V3 Double Down: SUS to ledge just below the boulder that perches on the edge. Make a dyno or

figure out how to avoid it. Tops out on the perched boulder.

13A.) V? SUS and climb the less then vertical face through less then quality rock.
13B.) V? Project: Climb the runnel/arete feature that starts above the ramp. This line will need a heavy cleaning.

14A.) V?/C1 Hand Grenade: That's right we aided this one! Climb the left crack system with some hand jams, fist jams, funkyness and thrutching to grab the FFA!

14B.) V? Project: Sit Down Start under the roof on the left-facing edge of the crack. Make some powerful moves on chossy stone to reach some better holds a the lip. Pull the bulge and continue through easy climbing.

15A.) V? Light Show Project: Start under the roof right of the prow on the large jug shelf. Work left out the rail to prow, then up through the pockets for the best possible path that will lead to a send. This line is very tall, with a slightly sloping landing, so bring several pads and a big friend to spot you.
15B.) V? Project: Start on the same jug rail and the "Light Show Project" and work right up through the weakness. Heading right then back left will probably yield the best possible results.
16.) V4 Party Cave: Located on the right side of the cave behind the small boulder that sits in the fall zone for this problem. SUS at a jug at head height make moves out roof above boulder. This one can be quite dirty often, brush the top out off if it has rained any lately.

Here is Danny Boy standing atop his problem "Party Cave".

Printable Over View Map - PDF

9/4/11

2011-09-08T20:45:00.000-07:00

I did a bit of badly needed maintenance earlier this week with Daniel. We shoveled the mulch off of a couple problems that prolly haven't been climbed since tamagotchis were around. Here are a few shots...
The above problem is directly across from Swiss Cheese Face V0
This is a low start variation that stays on the right face of the Cheese block.

While these two problems have seen very few recent ascents if any, they're completely worth the visit. While out, we cleaned everything between Sunken boulder and The Font, with exception of the Broke Down Cave. Go check 'em out!

Witches Area - Front Section

2011-09-08T10:11:00.000-07:00

This area has been around and known for awhile. It holds some of the earliest climbing trafic, due to it visabilty and location from Ohio University’s campus. The majority of rock and problems on the hill are of some of the first to dry out in the county. There location on top of the hill provides for fast drainage and a few of the problems are on free standing boulder. The area is small but the consentration makes up for it. Contains classics such as; “Key Hole” and “Witches Traverse”.

Parking:

Witch’s is located on the top of the hill next to Route 33. Take Stimson to the Rt33 East ramp and then turn left on to Rock Riffle Rd instead of getting on the interstate. Go under the over pass and parking is on the left and side just past it.

Approach:

If you take the trail on that North side of the road(where your parked) it will take you up onto bong hill. To access witches head toward the off ramp and you will find a steep trail on the other side of the culvert. Take this to the top of the hill where it will start to head in to the woods. The first rock you come to is the line Nintendo Thumb. Be prepared for this steep climb.

This cluster of boulders and cliff-band is known as the front section of Witches.

Routes:

1. V? Nientendo Thumb Project: Climb the near blank arete to the top

2. V1Climb the arete to the top.
3. V2 Castles Made of Sand: Climb the broken crack system to better holds.

4. 5.8 Climbing Class Mantel: Easy way for some noobs to practice their manteling skills.
5. V3 French Press: SDS and work into a shouldery move., then reach for the top.
6. 5.6Climb the wide crack and its sides to the top.
7 V1 Balance Slab.: SUS Climb to the right of the crack and left of arete up the slabby dihedreal.

8.V3 Thumber: SUS. Work from start up ride side of the arete to awkward undercling then to slopey mantel.

9.V4 50 Grit: SUS Crimps lead to large move to good edge followed by another to the amazing topout.

10. V1 Key Hole Arete: SUS Climb the left side of the arete through a pocket to the top. (Variation 2, V2: Climb the arete with out the pocket for the “Keyless Entry”.) (Variation 3, V4 climb the face through the pocket without the arete for “The Lock Smith”)

11, 5.7 School House Crack: SUS Climb the esay crack system. Not Pictured

12. V1
13. V3 Lip Traverse: SDS on jug and travel left and around the prow.
14. V2

15. V0 Duck Bill: Mantle on the the flat feature.

16. V3 Witches Traverse: SDS right of tree and cling to the lip as you move right to the point.

17. V4 Drew Arete: SDS on right side of the arete. Make use of the limited feet, if you get off the ground you have done more then most.

18. 5.9 Pillow Fight: SUS and climb through slopers to the lip.

19. V1SUS and climb the arete to top. Traverse into Witches Backside for something extra.

20. V4 Witches Brew. SDS in large pocket and make move left to tiny sharp crimp pocket, move up and left and finish on 17#

21. V2 Witches Backside: SDS in large pocket and move straight up into trough like topout. Used to be easier, but broken jugs are challenging.

22. V4 Whale Sex: SDS on “Witches Backside” and move right after second hold, move across slimpers and other trash to reach a weakness in the topout.

23. V-Fun: Climb the slab with no hands, knees are cheating too!

24. V0 Prego In A Dress: SUS on the right and traverse to the other side.

25. V? Low Blow Joe Project Mantle: SDS on Low Ball and mantle on small block

Printable Overview Map - PDF

Shoes for a "Little Foot"

2011-08-27T21:03:00.000-07:00

So both my wife and I are climbers, this is something that we enjoy very much and it is even how we meet. Now that we have had children, we don't plan to stop climbing, we plan to share our passion for the outdoors with our children. If you have ever seen our kids you know they small, extra small, most commercially produced gear wont fit our kids.

The above shoes were what we chose to be the first pair of shoes that our daughter would use for her climbing adventures. They were a pair of leather shoes that we had already had. Izzy had worn them a couple of times, and had climbed with just the plain soles a few times in the basement. We wanted to make sure that we had a good fit prior to enhancing them.
Baby shoes from Target

Above photo is the project shoes along with a larger size then we were thinking about doing at the same time. The box in the back ground is Five Ten's "Stealth Paint", at the time it had just come onto the market. We planned to add stealth rubber to the shoes, making a pair of climbing shoes that would fit our daughters little feet.

Stealth Paint

The shoes had been worn a little already by Izzy. I cleaned
the dirt and dust of with some denatured alcohol prior to beginning

In this photo I am applying the coat of rubber contact cement to the leather bottom of the shoe. The glass rod is the applicator that came with the kit. The cement was "Barge" brand and also included in the kit also.

Here is the shoe drying. The contact cement needed to dry completely before the next process could be applied.

Mixing the Barge cement into the stealth rubber shavings. Following the mixology directions listed in the kit.

Rubber and cement ready to go!

Begining to apply the rubber/cement mix to the contact cement ready shoe.

You have to use the glass rod applicator provided to apply the sticky mixture. This process was tedious and time consuming. You have to dab the mixture onto the shoe, then roll it down onto the leather sole, like using a baking pen. Rolling it back and forth with a firm pressure was key. Also note that the shoes are stuffed with paper to give them a solid profile, allowing easier application.

Here is the finished product minutes after applying and smoothing the final coat. We allowed a full 24 hours before allowing Izzy to sample them.

Below is a photo of Izzy testing her newly enhanced kicks on the bullet hard sandstone of new river gorge. She is warming up on Dad's project!

If you have any other questions about the process, don't hesitate to ask.

Athens Climbing Lives!

2011-08-27T13:31:00.000-07:00

This page has been neglected, but the rock still stands and the climbers still pull down. Fall is about to hit and that means a whole new wave of students, and the return of sending temps.

As most people know, our fearless leader (Tina) headed to those hills out west, which means maybe now someone will let the secret out about all those projects and they can finally be sent.... but maybe not.

If you're new to the area and you don't know where to start, I recommend a nice walk down the rockhouse trail, chances are you'll see some of the Athens veterans out brushing the sand and moss off the holds getting their re-sends of the classics (if they aren't still squating in old climber hangouts drinking thier PBR's and talking about how they're too tired and it's too hot to climb), or at least you'll get a feel for what this little bubble town has to offer.

Hopefully there is more news to come, so stay tuned

Breakdown Brokedown

2011-04-14T21:48:00.000-07:00

Breakdown cave lived up to it's name today, the key right hand crimp is no more. Me, Jake, and a handful of OU kids took our weekly bouldering trip today and found ourselves at the breakdown cave. After tearing a nice flapper earlier I settled in to watch the others pull down on this classic, Jake was showing the beta when BOOM the crimp blew. Look what he did, the little jerk-

Somebody get out there and get the send before old Tim-dog has a chance! The grade has definitely been up'd, good luck!

It's that time of year..

2011-01-10T11:29:00.001-08:00

The weather has turned for crap again this year, but I'm trying not leave my climbing in the same condition. Getting outside sounds miserable around this time and the weather's not exactly cooperative in attempting to stay strong, but I refuse to let an ever so tempting sedentary life be the answer. I've been spending way too many hours here on the computer watching climbing videos and reading nonsense blogs, but this near pointless dedication has actually produced something of value-I hope-for myself and anybody still refusing to wait for March to bring proper climbing temps back. I came across the two articles below and felt that each was helpful when I began to consider getting out in these sub-freezing, constantly snowing conditions.

The first has some good tips on how to stay warm. Even though it is not directed at bouldering, much of the advice most definitely still applies. The second link is one with tips to avoid injuries while we all train for our next 5.ridiculous or Vheinous super proj we plan to send in the spring. Hopefully the articles can be of some help and we can get some traffic out on the rock again despite the numbing cold and evil wetness. Best of climbing to everyone!

http://www.spadout.com/a/forget-frozen-fingers-ten-tips-to-keep-you-rock-cl/

http://www.spadout.com/a/avoiding-the-snap-crackle-pop-of-climbing-injuries/

-Jake-

Help Keep The Boulders Beautiful!

2010-11-09T16:39:00.000-08:00

Firstly, I'd like to say thank you to everyone who climbs in Athens. There are more people out climbing these days than ever before, and the majority of folks do an awesome job leaving no trace, keep it up!

It seems other folk aren't so caring though

This is what Jake and I found at the new party cave line at witches hill when we went to give it a look. Please take this into consideration next time you go climbing and throw a small trash bag in your pack. Chances are we can't stop everyone from trashing the areas we love, but if we suck it up and grab a few cans on the way home we can keep the boulders beautiful!

Sunken Boulder Oct. 10

2010-11-01T09:06:00.000-07:00

(Carrie V. on Frown)

There is not much better than nice Fall weather. I went out to The Sunken Boulder a couple weekends back with a few Athenians and Columbus Dispatch photographer Dan Sohner. Here are a few of the shots he took...
(Kent B. on Sunken Arete)

(Me on the Sunken Dyno)

(Kent back at it)

Community News Flash:

2010-10-31T16:37:00.000-07:00

Now that Halloween in Athens as come and gone it's time to get back to business.

Northeast Ohio Climbers Coalition:
If you are form the Northeastern Part of Ohio, call yourself a climber and don't know about this group, then it about time you did some research. Their mission is ensures public access to rock climbing areas by working with the climbing community, authorities, landowners and property managers while encouraging environmental conservation and responsible climbing.

If you are not a member already I suggest that you visit their face book page.

Why did I bring up a group located over a three hour drive away? Because they are taking on important issues that Ohio climbers face, access to public land. More so recently the identity of the Metro Park. We are fortunate that we are located in an area that is full of many open spaces for public use, many that allow unrestricted climbing an access. However not to far of the road is a local Metro Park full of rock that your not allowed to touch. So if you're from Summit County of the surrounding area please take some time to help your fellow locals with the cause.

You can also check out the Summit Metro Parks and their facebook page here.

If you are able to attend the NEOCC and other climbers will be at SMP meeting on November 17 at 12pm. More info on the meeting can be found on the NEOCC face book page under event, or here.

Info on other Northeastern Ohio climbing areas can be found here, the ruff guide site.

Other news:

"Party Cave" at Witches. This line was cleaned an established up on Witches Hill at the back section of rock. This line climbs out the leftmost side of the rock house that usually has a fire ring at it base, left from the most recent round of partying students. It starts just low in the cave at about 4/5 ft high on a large pocket/jug, from there if moves out, slightly to the left then straight up. Climbing above the small boulders on the ground to a seemingly blank top out. I would guess at the grade of about a V3/4, I didn't top it out the day I was there, still a little to dirty for my liking. However, the line climbs very nicely over the suspect rock. I would suggest that you bring a broom with you if you plan to climb this line, as it will likely be dirty, since there's a large hillside of dirt that sits above.
The Witches Online guide: It's coming along nicely, we hope to have it up by the end of this week.
Athens Projects page will be updated soon, were going to remind you of all those projects that lie in the woods. Hell were even going to give you directions and all of the the beta we have for them.
Tuesdays with Shay. I hoped to have made a better impression with these, but Shay's schedule is uncooperative and he is being a sissy about getting out to try the above mention projects. I blame it all on Big Red!

Hocking College Goes to the Trailer Park

2010-10-26T14:29:00.000-07:00

The Hocking College Outdoor Pursuits Program took a trip to the Trailerpark last week. I mention this because they have some nice photos of the Commitment Area on their Face Book page

Commitment Area (Boulder Cove)

2010-10-17T08:51:00.000-07:00

The Commitment Area is one of the oldest and most classic of all the Athens areas. Mainly it is for the problem called "Brid's Nest"(pictured to the left), which is extremely unique and could be a classic any where you put it. This problem and it alone is worth visiting this area. However the concentration of quality lines and its location in relation to other areas make this a must visit. All of the problems in this area have great landings, room for others to spectate, wide array of styles and good range of difficulties.

One of the downside to this area is that it is usually wet from late winter through mid ssummer, due the hillside that drains over it.

It is a short walk from the following areas; Ravine Boulders, Trailside Boulders, Font and Breakdown Cave.

Parking:
Same parking area as the "Trailer Park". Park at the white barn(Dance Studio) parking area off of East State street, located behind the Ohio University credit union. This is the start of the "Cucumbertree Connector" trail. If it is full park in the Wal-mart parking lot an walk over.

Approach:
From the White Dance barn head up the Cumcumbertree Connector trail. Take this for about .2 of a mile until you reach an intersection with the Athens Trail. This will intersect right near a wooden bridge. Take a right on the Athens Trail and continue for about another .2 of a mile. You will start to see some rock start to appear on your right. The cliff band will slowly grow in size and quantity as you go. You will come to a land bridge(bridge with no sides) next to a large roof. Continue past for about 300ft, when you will come to a another bridge, at the bridge turn left off of the trail and head toward the rock following a scant trail. The Commitment area is visiable from the bridge. Head up the trail toward the roofed section.

Routes:
1.    V3 The Mantle: JS. This is the first line as approach the area. It is also the farthest left line. Jump start up into a sweet mantle.
2.    V3 Commitment: SDS One of the greats. This line starts on the underclings and opens up with a large throw, to the amazing flake. Follow the flake to a committing mantle. Variation: V2 from stand.
3.    V6 Dope Nose: AKA Three Times a Lady: SDS Same start as birds nest but throw out left to the other drip feature. Once on this feature follow it straight to the top without going back right. FA: Randy Cooper
a.    V7 Dope World . Same as 4a but done after DopeNose Start.
4.    V5 Birds Nest: Classic SDS. Start oncolonette and slap your way up the slopers to the throw. Finish with mantle, don’t use your knees cheater.
a.    V6 Around the World: SDS. Contrived Line. Start on Birds Nest but instead of topping out, traverse the slopey ledge all the way to the Mantle(#1)
b.    V6 Underworld: Same as 4a but use the crimp edges just below the top.
5.    V3 Long Duck Dong: SDS. Start on the righthand side of the birds nest feature. Pull on to the face with the right facing side pulls, then make a long move and finish same as birds nest.6.    V4 Tarzan: SUS. Start under the roof on the pocked face and climb into the roof and then out to the lip. Watch out for that swing. FA: Levi Rose
7.    V3 Sincere Apologies: SUS.   This is the first and leftmost line on the wall to the right of Tarzan. Climb the face with out stemming to the left wall. Usually wet!! Fa:Tim Rice
8.    V3 Elephant Ear: SUS. To the right of Waterfall. Climb up onto the obvious large ear shaped feature and finish up the slope with the knobs.
9.    V2 Daws Jaws: SUS Start on obvious hold several feet to the right of Elephant ear. Make a long move with crappy feet to gain good holds.

These problems are on the boulders in the commitment area10.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 1: SUS. On the lower boulder in the commitment area. Traverse up and left.
11.    V1 Commitment Warm Up 2: SUS. Start matched on the large slanted self, hit the pockets and head toward the point. Mantle and watch out for the large rock that you could fall on.
12.    V0 Commitment Warm Up 3: SUS. The upper boulder in the commitment area. Usually a puddle at the base in the spring.
13.     V1 Commitment Warm Up 4: SUS same start as (#12) but climb right across face then up arete to top.
14.    V2 AssDragin: SDS. Start on the lower right and traverse the lip and face holds left up to the point.
15.    V3 Wolfmother Mantle: SDS on the Square Boulder to the right of the warm ups. Start and go straight into the mantle, that is only about 3ft tall and over the trail. FA: Dan Proudfoot

16.     V? Possible Project: SDS under low roof and mantle for finish. (not pictured)
17.     V0 Old Beginnings: SUS on the boulder at the base of the hill as the climbing trail breaks from the main Athens Trail. Start on the pockets and head up to the slopy finish.

Link to Printable Guides:
B&W Overview Map - PDF
PDF w/color Photos - Coming Soon

New Line at Witches Hill

2010-10-15T19:00:00.000-07:00

A possible V4ish line has been opened in the back sector of Witches Hill this week. "Party Cave" climbs out the right hand side of the large rock house located at the very back of Witches. This section of rock has normally been avoided due to its height, landing and general sandyness. But a couple of enthusiastic climbers have cleaned a pocketed section of the face and possible add another line to the hill.

Hope to get out and get some photos for you this week.

Tuesdays with Shay

2010-10-13T18:14:00.000-07:00

So were going to start a new series here on the blog called "Tuesdays with Shay". Each week Shay will be visiting climbing areas around Athens, weather permitting. To start thing off were going to take a second to introduce the one and only "Shay".

Shay as born January 5, 1989 in a small town in central Ohio. Why is this important, it's not, but now you know how old he is and when to buy him a card for his birthday.

Shay is about 5 foot nine and weighs about 12olbs soaking wet with hiking boots on. Is this important. Yes, this allows the little bugger to hang on to some of the smallest holds, the ones that leave the rest of us shaking our heads and rubbing our sore tips.

Shay does have one thing going against him though. That is his shoulder, if you have seen it, you know what I'm talking about. It's the deformed one, the one that makes you want to puke a little in your mouth, every time you see him with his shirt off. Oh... and for some reason he is always taking his shirt off when he climbs.

Shay is however always a bag full of hoots and hollars to be around and climb with. When he's skyed he is full of positive energy that transforms the climbing posse he is rolling with.

So let the Tuesdays begin........

New Line at the Commitment Area

2010-10-12T13:15:00.000-07:00

We managed to put up a new line at the Commitment Area today. The waterfall project had been completed lending way to "Sincere Apologies". This climbs the face to the left of the line "Elephant Ear", it climbs through some nice edges and slopers after the akward start. The face is climbed without stemming to the ugly and chossy wall to the left of the dihedral. Were guessing it weighs in at about a v3 and tops out at about 15feet. This is a nice addition to the area.

All of the holds and the top out are currently clean so go give it a try!

Athens Bouldering Update - 9-19-2010

2010-09-19T16:55:00.000-07:00

Athens Bouldering Update since the storms blew in. Committment area is clean, ravine area along with Font area have trees in them. Not sure on Coad or Emerald. Sunken Boulder is good, but tons, I means tons of trees are down from the recent storms. We need to organize a clean up to help the other user groups. Anyone available?

Found Shoe!

2010-09-19T06:44:00.000-07:00

I found a single shoe at the trailer park. Let me know if you lost one.

Bears in the Woods of Kentucky..What!?

2010-06-28T10:52:00.000-07:00

Apparently bears are making a come back into the woods of the Daniel Boone National Forest. This is great news for the region. However there was a bear attack this past week in the Red River Gorge Region of the forest, this has prompted the closing of some major crags.

More details can be found here and a news report here, along with the official forest page.

Sunday in the NRG 6/20/01

2010-06-26T17:22:00.000-07:00

Went down to the NRG last Sunday to enjoy the 90 degree weather. With the perfect temps it seemed like the perfect day to hit the New. With us, my brother came and documented the flora and fauna.

We drove down to the White Wall in the South side of Meadow River Gorge, way back in the sticks. Mikes Truck, and Travs' Road Warrior easily conquered the manky class one approach to the business.
On the way in we stopped to push a chevy s-10 out of the ditch, got some toothless local good luck and then proceeded to the crushing. Sixty-five percent of the day was spent in the shade hanging out in the forest and the other thirty-five percent was spent getting on the nasty.
Here's Jaime on the tron-sight of Flaming Pellets.
I stuck with the bolts all day, Jamie and Trav wrapped it up with some trad sends, and Maria topped and cleaned the last route as we packed up in the dusk.

Check out his site and some more photos from years past at the Ping Center and Hocking College climbing comps. If you hit the "Home" link then "climbing" you cant miss it.
here...

http://www.douglasaden.com/gallery.html?directory=images%2FGeorge%2FNew+River%2F2010_06_20%2F&pageNumber=1&onHomepage=#NewRiver

Safety Alert

2010-06-15T12:38:00.000-07:00

In light of a recent accident at the New River Gorge I want to help share some info about a piece of gear.

Watch this video

You can read about the accident here and here

So remember to be safe this summer and always, always double check yourselves.

Dam Boulders

2010-04-12T20:08:00.000-07:00

The Dam Boulders is a small area, but it can entertain the finger tips for an afternoon. It contains a couple of good problems along with some projects, some of good quality, other choss. This area can also see some deviant recreation that occurs due it being a state park close to a main highway and parking lot. So just watch you step and be aware of your surroundings. Don't feel nervous about this area, I have been there many times with my 2 year old, with no concerns. However, I have had some weird encounters other times, just wanted you to be aware.

Parking:
Parking is located on OH-50 /OH-32 East past the east end of East State Street. Park in the same parking lot that serves as access to the dam at Dow Lake/ Stroud's Run State Park.

Approach:
From the parking lot head up the gravel road sized trail toward the dam. Go past the mountain biking trail(Sundowner) and continue to the top of the earthen dam. Once on the top take the trail to the right, same start as the Indian Mound Trail. However break off to the left and follow the same elevation grade to the boulders. About 1000ft down the trail you will find a small foot path that leads off to the right(can be easily missed). The boulders are at the end this foot paths about 200ft off of the main trail. (see map on PDF guide)

Routes:
Dam Boulder
1. V1+ Litter Box: SUS. If you are standing between the boulder and the cliff behind it this is the left arête. Standing start to Easy Mantle.
2. V? Sandy Dandy: Project. SUS. This is the face problem to the right of the of Litter Box. Hard start straight up the center to sandy pocket then mantle. Open project
3. V1 Right Arête: SUS. This is to the right of Sandy Dandy
3a. Variation that exits early.
4. V3 Dam Friction: SUS This is the First problem you approach off of the foot trail. It is a jump start in too the mantle on the corner. Hand friction is the key.
5. V? Little Roof Mantle: Project. Hard. This is a mantle that is above the little roof on the right of the boulder as you approach. Open Project.

Cliff Line
6. V? Spoolge Arête: SUS Sick. This is an arête on the small cliff behind the first boulder. Standing Start to the top. Looks stellar and hard. Project.
Slim Pickens Boulder
7. V0+ Sketchy: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is an inward leaning arête that easy and cool.
8. V2 Sweet Pickins: SUS. This is on the Second Boulder. This is a beautiful looking line. This is on the west side of the boulder and climbs a Large C-shaped feature. Start on the feature and throw to the left slopey lip the traverse right and top out to the right of where you started.
9. V1 Snot Fact: JS. This is on the Second Boulder. To the left of SweetPickens. Jump to the concave area in the lip and mantle.
Link to Printable Guides:
Pdf Map and Guide
Pdf Photo One
Pdf Photo Two

Trip Report 3/18/10

2010-03-18T07:05:00.000-07:00

Trailer Park

The weather was fantastic, We truly couldn't ask for any better in March, so Dustyn, Jake,Emily, Dan C, and myself headed for the Trailer Park. Our first stop was to be Sunken boulder, due to Dustyn's unfinished business with Frown. So after a nice hike it was time to get our send on. The boulder condition was great, completely dry and after a quick sweep of the top out it was time to get our send on. A quick warm up on the right of the arete lead to Dustyn's much needed 1st go on Frown. After Jake giving it a few unsuccessful attempts we moved on back towards the TP. We saw some other local Athenians just up the hill from sunken running a train on HJ in the TP, so we said hello and went on our way.

Next stop was The font area. Boulder conditions in this area seem to be getting high traffic, making it great to just jump right on after the usual top out sweep on "The Font Arete". Soon after arriving at the area we were meet by the Hocking crew also taking advantage of the the great weather and looking for their early season sends.
With our time in the woods coming to and end we headed up the hill to check out the conditions of "break down" boulder. To our surprise break down was climbable. A quick once over with an M16 left the holds ready to be crushed. After everyone gave it a few goes we decided to call it a day and head back.

Crash Pad Deal

2010-03-16T10:43:00.000-07:00

Revolution is rocking a deal on their Commando Pad. They are clearing out their 2009 pads for
$80, they normally retail for $160

Revolution Climbing 41" x 32" x 3" (104cm x 81cm x 8cm) Commando Pad. Backpack straps, closure flaps, taco fold, and all-around burlyness. We have some of the 2009 models around here, and we're doing a big-ass sale on them: $80 sound good? E-mail us or give us a free call: 877-2-Boulder.

If you get two or more shipping is free.

Check it out!

Spring Cleaning

2010-03-12T19:56:00.000-08:00

Tis the Season!!!!

Hey there all you Local Athens climbers, the weather is great and after pulling plastic for many winter months, its finally time to get back outside and work those finger shredding, mantleiciouse, Athens projects and problems that you ve been sending in your mind all winter long. Well guys and gals Tis the season for some cleaning. After getting on some of Athens finest problems and topping out on sandy beaches, and muddy holds all day, the boulders were in dire need of a good once over with a few brushes.
So I decided I would make my first of the season brush buying binge. After spending about 2 hours hitting up local shops I came across some ever so perfect rock brushes. So I figured I would do my best to give all my fellow Athenians some brush buying beta. First on the list is the ever so important "M 16" these wonderful crimp dusters can be picked up at Ohio Valley in Athens or Nelsonville. You can find them in the gun cleaning isle. Next on the brush tick list was the ever so soft horse hair , sloper sprinkling chalk brush. After a few stops and being shut down I headed to the ever so dreaded "Wal Mart" yes I know I really tried to get it every where else but didn't have any luck. I got this jewel in the shoe dept with the shoe shining stuff. Definitely a must have. While I was there I also picked up a cheapo broom for those classic Athens top outs. I then finished up at the dollar general picking up a few bigger brushes for the 1st of the seasons clean fest.
I know this weather has everyone heading for the hills and local boulder fields, so i figured I would remind you all take a brush and help out. Please stay clear of the super hard bristled brushes or wire brushes, there hard on the rock and can damage its natural texture. So to all you climbers that have been cooped up in basements, cold garages, and college top rope walls. IT IS TIME TO CLIMB!!!

Supplies and Gear

2010-02-13T15:25:00.000-08:00

Where to restock you camping and climbing supplies?

Athens Area

The Pedaler and Packer:
What they got? The Pedaler has variety of gear to meet your needs. They stock a small selection of climbing shoes(Five ten and mammut), along with a couple crash pads. They also carry a selection of carabinners, harnesses and nylon product(rope, cordage, and webbing). Highly knowledge staff. One of the only places to get chalk.

432 Richland Ave
Athens Ohio 45701
740-592-4630
Map

Ohio University - Outdoor Pursuits Rental Center:

The Rental and Sales Center is located off the Ping Center loading dock. Access from outside Ping.

What they got? They have a well stocked rental center with tents, sleeping bags, and other general camping gear. They also carry chalk, tape and a few harnesses.

South Green Dr
Athens Oh 45701
740-597-2154
Map

Dunham's Sports:
What they Got? Dunhams is more or a general sports store. But you can find general camping gear and a tape.

The Market on State
1006 East State Street
Athens, Oh 45701
740-592-1032
Map

Walmart:
What they got? It's walmart.

929 East State St.
Athens, Ohio 45701
740-594-3398
Map

Athens County Attractions

2010-02-07T12:01:00.000-08:00

This a incomplete list of non climbing things to do while visiting Athens.

As Always you can also visit the Visitors Bureau site, or check out the links below.

Mountain Biking:
Trails to Ride:
Athens/Strouds Run Trail Network
Lake Hope State Park

Local Bike Shops:
Athens Bicycle
Athens Cycle Path
The Pedaler and Packer

Zip Tours
Hocking Hills Canopy Tours
Hocking Peaks

Canoeing and Kayaking
Hocking Valley Canoe Livery
Hocking Hills Canoe Livery
Earth, Water and Rock

Disc Golf:
Hocking College Course (Dg Course Review)

Ohio University Course
Hocking Hills Course - Hocking Peaks
Lancaster Course - Flat Rocks
Reedsville Course - Forked Run

Golf :
Ohio University - 9 hole Course
Athens Country Club
Elm Golf Course
Forest Hills
Brass Ring
Pine Hills

Other Family Fun Activity Areas:
Hocking Peaks Adventure Park
ATV World
Hocking Fun Center

Movie Theaters:
Athena Grand
Movies Ten
Athena

Local Special Interests:
Athens Farmers Market

Preview of the PDF's

2010-02-05T17:41:00.000-08:00

Here is a link to a printable PDF for the Emerald Boulder.

Emerald Boulder

These are in the works for all of the Athens County climbing areas. Commitment Area, Trailside, Font and Dam Area are near completion. They will be posted in conjunction with the area description pages.

Emerald Boulder Page

Emergency Services

2010-02-04T19:04:00.000-08:00

Athens County has a 911 service.

Athens Area:
Athens City Police - 740-593-6606
County Sheriff - 740-593-6633
Hospitals
O'bleness Memorial Hospital - 740-593-5551
55 Hospital Drive, Athens Ohio 45701 see Map

Holzer Clinic Athens
Phone - (740) 589-3100
Urgent Care (740) 589-3120
2131 East State St
Athens, OH 45701

Nelsonville Area::
Nelsonville City Police
County Sheriff - 740-593-6633
Hospitals
Doctors Hospital - 740-753-7300
1950 Mt. St. Mary Dr, Nelsonville Ohio 45764 see Map

Logan Area: (Hocking Hills Climbing and Rappelling Area)
Hocking Hills State Park Office - 740-385-6842
Hocking County Sheriff - 740-385-2131
Hospitals
Hocking Valley Community Hospital - 740-380-8000
601 State Rt. 664 North
Logan, Ohio 43138 see Map

Athens Camping and Lodging

2010-01-21T19:43:00.000-08:00

Hotels:
Hampton Inn:
986 E. State St, Athens Ohio
740-593-5600

Holiday Inn Express:
555 East State St., Athens Ohio
740-592-4640
Is located just off of route 33 and behind Abblebees

Days Inn:
330 Columbus Rd, Athens Ohio
740-592-4000

Knights Inn:
997 East State St, Athens Ohio
740-593-5565

Super 8 Motel:
2091 East State St, Athens Ohio
740-594-4900

Camping:
Stroud's Run State Park Campground:
11661 State Park Road
Athens, Ohio 45701
(740) 592-2302
Park Map / Campground Map

Lake Snowden:
5900 Us Hwy 50
Albany Ohio 45710
740-698-6373
Lake Snowden Maps

Cabin Rentals:
Hocking Hills Region (more info to come)

Let me know if you have other suggestions for this post. Areas you have camped or cabins you have stayed in or know about. Ill add them to the blog.

New Blog Discovery

2010-01-19T08:06:00.000-08:00

Recently found a new blog that has some worthy information.

The Mountain World

See this post for interesting tests of older climbing ropes.

Have also added it to the links list for your future viewing pleasure.

-tim

Hunting Season

2009-11-29T08:31:00.000-08:00

Hunting Season is here, and I'm not talking about looking for new problems in the hills. Ohio's hunting season as been in full swing for a while now, however there is one week a year that catches my attention a little more then others. That week is referred to a "Deer Gun Week" around here, it lasts from November 30th through December 6th. This is the only week that Hunters are permitted to hunt deer with a gun, besides a couple special weekends.

I want to let people know about this Deer Gun Week due to the affect that it has on the local climbing. Several of the areas that are mentioned in this blog and that allow climbing are also open to hunters during the above mentioned dates. So be careful if your out and about in the woods this week, make sure to wear bright colors and beware of your surroundings.

Even in areas as such as the Trailer Park I have seen hunters. The best places to climb during this week would probably be COAD and Witches.

Below is some info on Ohio's Hunting from ODNR' page.

Deer Zones and Bag Limits
	Deer Permit ($24)			Antlerless Deer Permit ($15)
Zone	Opening Date	Closing Date	Limit	Opening Date	Closing Date	Limit	Total
A	Sept 26, 2009	Feb 7, 2010	1	Sept 26, 2009	Nov 29, 2009	1	2
B	Sept 26, 2009	Feb 7, 2010	2	Sept 26, 2009	Nov 29, 2009	2	4
C	Sept 26, 2009	Feb 7, 2010	3	Sept 26, 2009	Dec 6, 2009	3	6

Deer Hunting Hours

Archery season hours are 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset.

Hours for deer hunting are 1/2 hour before sunrise to sunset for the Youth Deer Gun Season, Deer Gun Season, the Early Muzzleloader Season, and Statewide Muzzleloader Season.

09-2010 Hunting Season Dates and Bag Limits

SPECIES	OPENING DATE	CLOSING DATE	DAILY BAG
White-tailed Deer: Archery	September 26	February 7	Refer to Deer Hunting Section for details on zone and bag limits
White-tailed Deer: Early Muzzleloader Wildcat Hollow, Salt Fork Wildlife Area, Shawnee State Forest	October 19	October 24
White-tailed Deer: Youth Gun	November 21	November 22
White-tailed Deer: Gun	November 30	December 6
White-tailed Deer: Gun (extended)	December 19	December 20
White-tailed Deer: Muzzleloader	January 9	January 12
Wild Turkey: Fall	October 10	November 29	Refer to Turkey Hunting Section for details on seasonal bag limits
Wild Turkey: Spring	October 10	November 29
Wild Turkey: Spring	April 19	May 16
Squirrel (gray, red, fox, black)	September 1	January 31	6
Mourning Dove	September 1 - Refer to Publication 298 or Small Game Section
Ruffed Grouse	October 10	January 31	2
Goose and Brant	Refer to Waterfowl Season Dates or refer to Publication 295 Click here to review all Waterfowl Season Information
Ducks, Coots, Mergansers and Canvasbacks	Refer to Waterfowl Season Dates or refer to Publication 295 Click here to review all Waterfowl Season Information
Cottontail Rabbit	November 6	February 28	4
Ringneck Pheasant	November 6	January 10	2 (cock pheasants only)
Bobwhite Quail	November 6	November 29	4
Fox, Raccoon, Skunk, Opossum, Weasel	November 10	January 31	No Limit
Crow Fri. Sat. Sun. Only	June 5, 2009	March 14, 2010	No Limit
Coyote	No closed season for hunting or trapping		No Limit
Wild boar	No closed season for hunting		No Limit
Groundhog	Closed during deer gun season only		No Limit

An Out-Of-Towners Guide To Athens Bouldering

2009-11-23T20:55:00.000-08:00

Tim is working hard on putting together guides for all the different climbing areas in and around Athens, but after looking through the old post I realized there aren't any directions listed to get you to the bouldering in the first place, so I thought I would give some to get the folks from out of (and in) town started

Driving directions- To access the bulk of Athens climbing there is an excellent trail network. If it's your first time coming in to town, I suggest you start with the COAD/Trailer Park Areas. The trail head for these areas is located on East State Street. If coming taking 33 East or West, follow the signs towards the State street exit. Once you reach East State Street, turn East towards Apple Bees, you should pass it on your right. Continue following East State past a few car dealerships, shops, and restaurants (a few should be familiar from Dylan's post). After passing through a few lights you will come to an intersection with Walmart and Burger King on your right, and The Ohio University Credit Union on your left. From here you will turn left down a small street which I can't find the name of. The Credit Union should now be on your right, and a small trailer park on your left. Park at the end of the road at the big blue and white barn. The obvious trail in to the woods is called the Cucumber trail.

Directions to the boulders- Follow the cucumber trail in to the woods. Please stay on the main trail not only because it is good ethics, but because this trail is on privately owned land, and we don't want to lose access! Follow this trail until you reach a wooden foot bridge on your left. To access COAD and the emerald boulder cross the footbridge and follow the trail left. To access the trailer park boulders pass the bridge and continue on. Along this trail you will pass the commitment area, the ravine area, the font area, the spirit area, and tons of other established problems.

Definitive guides coming soon, stay tuned...

Here is a map of the Athens trail network on which I marked the bouldering parking in red, along with a couple of the more condensed areas. Hope this helps!

Trip Report: HP40, Triple Crown Event

2009-11-16T15:46:00.000-08:00

This past weekend a large group of Ohioans traveled the 1400 miles to compete in the second leg of the Triple Crown event at Horse Pens 40. The Triple Crown is a series of three bouldering competitions spread across three boulderfields, and three states.
From the TC website
WHAT IS THE TRIPLE CROWN? The goal of the Triple Crown is twofold. First and foremost, the mission is to raise funds for two organizations dedicated to maintaining climbers' access: the Southeastern Climbers' Coalition and The Carolina Climbers' Coalition. These two organizations have been instrumental in the acquisition of land for the climbing community, in a region that is riddled with access issues. Secondly, this unique event will once again provide a tremendous opportunity for vendors to promote the sport of bouldering, which has quickly become the focus of the ever growing climbing community.
There were six of us that drove down from Athens and met up with three more from Athenians, three from c-bus, and three from the nasty. With our powers combined we created a force to be reckoned with.

We arrived on Friday afternoon to temps in the high 60's and a campsite that was awaiting our tents, thanks to the crew from C-bus. We started the night with introducing the first timers to the boulders of HP40, they were amazed at the concentration of this southern boulder destination. We all had an early night in preparation for the full day of climbing we were committed to in the morning.

Awoken to the commotion of climbers beginning their morning routines and smell of coffee was a
pleasant start to the day. We all signed in at registration and picked up or event shirts, free swag, and comp guide books. They gathered everyone under the pavilion, went over the rules and unleashed the mob of 400+ into the boulder field. Dylan and I however decided to enter a new division the morning of. This new category was called star chaser; the idea was for us to compete by climbing the best problems in the entire field. This meant that instead of getting the points for difficulty we got the number of stars used to rate the problem. The competitor at the end of the day with the most stars was the winner. The problems could be as high as a three star classics or a pile of sand with no stars. Both Dylan and I attempt problems as hard as V5 for three stars. By the end of the day we were both spent and sore from the local classics. By then I had complete 56 problems for a total of 96 stars for 4th place.

Now there were some others in the group that managed to pull off a better day. Conan from C-bus had planned out his day a month in advance. He had a list of problems he had sent before, along with a few new ones to try and walked away with a score of 4322 to secure 2nd place. Right on his heels was another friend Eric with 4298 for third. After the second event, Conan sits in first place overall for mens intermediate, and Eric in 4th. Good work guys!

Shane, also from A-town, brought his A game along for the 9 hour car ride. He managed to rack up 2139 which was only good enough for third place, however he is sitting pretty going into the final event with 225 point lead over the guy in second place. That is a whole extra problem for his category, beginner mens.

So that being said we all have some training to do for the next event to hold our spots or advance for a win.

A write up from Dead Point Magazine can be found here. Along with a Video here, which has a couple of the Ohio crew in it.

Over all Triple Crown standings can be found here.

We have one month to get ready for our next leg of the series at Little Rock City aka Stone Fort.

Until then...

Trip Report: Emerald Send Fest

2009-11-16T06:34:00.000-08:00

I'm just going to put this statement out there:
Emerald boulder may offer the best concentration of high quality, moderate boulder problems in Athens.
I've found one of my new favorites: "Discombobulation" V5

Anyway, last week Louis, Gunnar, Joey, Mike, Carrie and I went out for a late afternoon session. We had a good ol’ time yellin at each other and figuring out beta. Louis filled his score card by sending everything but “Crystal Shard,” and I managed to get yet a couple more new sends in before I leave town.

We started out the session with the classic slab “Snake Eyes.” Smeary feet, slopey holds and a balancy dead point make this line super fun.

After the send train left the station we moved on to “Barbs” or “Barbed Wire.” Now Louis and I tried this last spring with no luck. If I had to explain the situation last spring there would be three factors that lead to our demise: Low Traffic, Humidity and Weak Sauce. Last spring it felt like we were trying to mantle on sand castle slopers.

Regardless, Louis and I made short work of the super fun V4 this time around.

Joey in awe of the jewel

Here's a slide show of "Barbed Wire:"

Discombobulation is an awesome line. As stated before, it may be my favorite Athens 5. The creative beta and smeary feet really brought the group together trying to solve this problem. Start with high feet and manipulate the balancy slab smears and obvious holds to get purchase on the slopey top out. Lore has it that no one under 5’10 has sent it!

Emerald Arete was quickly dispatched by Louis on this outing and he has for sure been crushing lately. His laid back attitude and climbing psych only compliment his superb spotting skillz. Spoons not forks!

We had a beautifully perfect fall day with the afternoon sun petering out leaving us with crisp send temps. It’s always a good session when a group of motivated individuals sets forth on an epic senday. So get out there and make your fingers bleed, spend a day in the woods enjoying the gorgeous east coast forests and take it all in because it’s going to be winter soon.

Climbing Shoes and Sizing

2009-11-13T20:04:00.000-08:00

Climbing Shoes and Sizing:

The idea with this post is for users to share the climbing shoes they have owned and the size of those shoes. That away fellow climbers can view their list and use it to to help choose an appropriate sizes when purchasing new shoes. A street shoe or boot listed for reference is great too.

Leave your list as a comment for everyone to see.

Below are links to some popular shoe manufactures.
Five Ten
La Sportiva
Evolve
Mad Rock
Scrapa
Mammut

Comment Model:
Make, Model, Size (comment about the fit)

ex: Five Ten, Jet 7, 9 (tight as hell)

Athens Bouldering Projects

2009-11-09T18:53:00.000-08:00

Just like any other climbing area, the Athens Ohio climbing and bouldering scene has its fare share of projects and unrepeated problems. Today we are going to share a few of these projects with you.

Nelsonville Area:

First up. The projects located behind Hocking College, which are located on campus property. Two steep roof lines that lead to easier exit mantels. The one pictured below is a series of overhanging good crimps that lead to a slopey half pad edge crimp crux section. The second is also a steep roof to large sloper rail, that might then yield a dnyo to the finish. For access directions leave a comment with your email address and we will send them to you. Hocking has some minor steps you have to take to climb here.

Next up is the "Arching Nemesis" project at the Land of Super Heros. This small area located in Wayne National Forest near Nelsonville is composed of just two boulders, the Super Hero boulder and the Sidekick Boulder. The the project is on a 20-25 foot tall overhanging arete that leads to a dicy exit onto the Superman Slab. Direction to come in a following post. You can also see it in this video. This area also contains potential for a few one move wonders of lesser quality

Trailer Park:

Tall and Proud, that is the game it these next two projects at the Trailer Park near the Commitment boulder, aka Boulder Cove. First is "Big Mamas" this it the beast of an arete that is featured in climbing magazine.(Justin Roth's) blog. This line climbs the left side of the arete to the top. Good holds lead to balancey and progressively harder climbing. Height, sketchy landing, bad weather and weaksauce have kept this one from being picked.

Next up at the Trailer Park is the Entrance roof located to the left of the trail as you go over the boardwalk just before you get to the commitment area. The "Flux Capacitor Project" climbs straight out the roof on decent holds, establish on the face and climb through crimps and the hold the looks like the flux capacitor from the "Back to the Future" movies. Battle out the slopers, underclings and dirty rock to the top. This is a high ball that see little traffic and is currently dirty.

Another new area at the trailer park is the Lions wall.
This area is mainly slabs until you reach the right most side near the rock house. This section of the wall is less featured and 15-20ft tall with half pad and smaller edges on the slightly overhanging face leading to the top. Not to much effort has been put into these projects, but they will go very soon.

COAD:

One of the remaining projects at COAD is a roof to overhanging Arete. This one has thwarted many attempts for a while. It is located on the upper tier at COAD. It sits the the left of "Too Small for Paws" and "The Crack". Stand up into a sandy/chossy start that leads to more solid crimps in a horizontal weakness. From the crimps make a dynamic move to the sloper dish, contiune right up the arete to the top, going left to crack system has been done. Sorry can't find any photos at this time.

Witches:

Witchs has a another tall blank arete that has seen some action. Dubbed the "Nientiendo Thumb Project" is the very first tall arete as you enter the area. Stand or sit and climb the arete. Rumors say that it has almost been sent on multiple ocassions but it still remains virgin.

Emerald:

A low start to Discombobulated remains open too. Same start as Crystal Shard Sit and Emerald and climb left along sloper to linkup with the stand of Discombulated. Not a pure line in its form, but still doable and hard.

This is not a complete list of Athens projects but a taste of what still remains to be sent. Also, sorry the directions are not posted for all of these areas. We are still working on the individual guides to each area. If you need directions in the meantime, leave a comment and we will shoot you back an email.

Now let see some of these projects get sent with these fall temperatures.

Be Safe and Climb Stong!

Trip Report: Witches

2009-11-02T12:37:00.000-08:00

Hey yall,
Louis and I went out to Witches last week and got in a late afternoon session.

The (A) on the map denotes the approximate location of Witches

Setting sun and crisp temps made for the perfect send-fest. The chill of fall in Athens means many things to me, one of those things is wonderful friction. The other things have to do with getting drunk in spandex and a wig.

I'm telling you with all honesty, Athens sandstone is easy to palm in the fall. It's like cheating. Otherwise heinous top outs felt effortless, the classic "Witches Traverse" felt easier than picking up dudes at the bar and "Drews Arete" was actually feeling sendable (although I did not send). So after warming up on the warm up boulder, which doesn't really have that many good warm ups anymore thanks to the consistently inconsistent rock, we threw ourselves at a highball project that vindictively stayed a project.

As the sun started to disappear over the gorgeous Hocking River valley, Louis and I jumped on the V4 classic "50 Grit." An aesthetic vertical block with a lone sloping crimper dividing the 4 feet between start holds and sloping mantle. Unfortunately, I did not get any photos of us on "50 Grit," but I did get a snap shot of the block. Here's few photos from the day:

Warm up boulder Drew's Arete on right and Witches Traverse on left

Drew's Arete

Louis with the send

The Proj: Nintendo Thumb

50 Grit

Beautiful fall day

Here are some appropriate alliterations to accurately associate my appreciation for our awesome Athens afternoon:
The overall outing was outstanding.
Super solid sloper slappin'
Crazy crimpy cobble clobbering.
-Dylan

New Athens Bouldering Forums

2009-10-29T07:31:00.000-07:00

Dustyn has set up some forums for the Athens Bouldering scene. Check them out.

http://athensbouldering.freeforums.org/index.php

Athens Eats - Where to fill your tank

2009-10-22T08:03:00.000-07:00

If you're like me then your insatiable urge to crush boulder problems is only complimented by your ravenous and undaunted appetite. There are few things more satisfying than eating delicious and unique food after a day of slappin' slopers and pimpin' crimpers, especially when the day's sole nutrition was cliffbars and sour worms. Climbers may not be known for their good hygiene (at least we can boast low weekly water usages), but a lot of us do consider the environmental ramifications of where that 65% soy "all beef patty" comes from. Luckily, Athens has the goods to make your belly full and your conscience clean, but don't worry there's still an abundance of mundane fast food joints. Being that I'm biased and proud: I will not spend too much time describing the intricacies of the supreme balance of tastes protruding from McDonalds Whopper value meal.

Living in Athens for the better part of decade now, I am sure to miss the restaurant selection when I leave. Athens is capable of drawing back troves of Homecoming Alums for more than getting up at 6 in the morning to go drinking. For us locals it means long waits at the "famous" uptown eateries but for the homecomers, it’s a chance to indulge in the delicious food selection that can’t be replicated. For good reason, though.
I have broken it down into geographical areas to get fed.
East State Street:
E. State is closest to the Trailer Park and COAD. E. State is home to most fast food chains or corporate restaurants. You can get supersized or footlonged. Most notable for E. State is the Athens Farmers Market that meets Saturday from 10am - 1pm all year and Wednesdays from 10am - 1pm April - October and the following:
Abrio's Brick Oven Pizza:
Pizza and Salads! Dine in, take out and enjoy. This restaurant is one of the few locally owned places on E. State.
Maplewood Inn and Drive Thru:
Local's bar, serves most things deep fried. Maybe the best wings in town? Nachos = Awesome. The Maplewood provides a close and easy way to bring booze to the boulders! Drive thru and get a sixer of Busch lite tallboys and make sure to shotgun them in the parking lot before venturing into the Athens trail network... Just remember, Leave No Trace.
Avalanche Pizza:
This pizza joint is slightly reminiscent of Miguels Pizza in that you can get just about anything you can think of on your pizza. Take away the climber campground, give it a more consistent dough supply and specific specialty pies add a lil ease of delivery and there you have it: Miguels classier, more bashful sister. NO BEER HERE, though.
Village Bakery & Della Zona:
This place is pumped on being local, if you're pumped on being local, then this is your place. If you are not into being local but would love the opportunity to make fun of local-hipster-environmentally-conscience people, then this is your place, too. The Village Bakery home-makes as much as possible, very vegetarian friendly and has great Sunday breakfast specials. Della Zona is owned and operated by The Village Bakery and when translated means From the Area in Italian. Della Zona offers amazing pizza, salad and gelato. They have very creative and awesome pizzas. A little pricey but phenomenal. Also, they have a choice selection of craft beers!
Uptown Athens:
Uptown Athens consists of Court Street and the few roads surrounding. When traveling west on E. State Street you'll know you're getting close when you feel the aesthetic charm of brick streets bottoming out the shocks on your car. There are between 15 and 20 bars in this area, many of which serve typical bar food. The few restaurants listed here offer the most unique options and are all within walking distance from each other. Uptown Athens mixes class with trash and offers opportunity for anyone's taste buds to salivate.
Obetty's Red Hot!:
Indulge yourself in the sexiest hotdog museum in all of Ohio. Obetty's Red Hot! offers premium all beef hotdogs and french fries, but don't worry... Everything on the menu can be completely de-meated for all you veg-heads out there. I love Obetty's and you probably will, too. Sadly, they do not serve beer here. I know, I know, how are you supposed to eat a hotdog without any booze? Do not fret! You are welcome to bring a 40 oz. of malt liquor to accompany your wiener.
Casa Nueva:
Casa Nueva prides itself on being the "localvore's solution" to dining. For those of you who don't know what a localvore is, it's someone that only eats locals. Fortunately, Casa Nueva didn't realize what this word truly meant and they offer Mexican food (more like hippified-mexican) with as much local, low-impact, organic ingredients as possible. The Athens County farms provide Casa with pork, chicken, beef, vegetables and greens. The local beta for Casa is hit up the breakfast and stay after to treat yourself to the full bar. Make sure to get a made to order Bloody Mary.
Jackie O's Pub and Brewery:
MICROBREWS!!!! Delicious fish and chips, Athens Own organic beef burgers with local sharp cheddar, awesome vegetarian selection and microbrews. Jackie O's serves quality brews, foods, and music. Recently expanded, Jackie O's now has one of the largest music venues/bars in Athens. Outdoor seating pool tables and an indoor shuffleboard make this locally owned establishment a great place to lose a few hours. Often, you will meet climbers here (check the creases of their fingers for chalk dust) talking about new problems and waving their arms around like idiots. Did I mention Microbrews? Ales, Lagers, Porters, Stout's and bourbon barreled! They host a fine selection of craft brews as well. Eat and be merry at Jackie O's

Big Mamma’s Burritos:

Big burritos for small prices. Big Mamma’s has some creative twists to the burrito standard. Philly cheese, Big Mac and Chipotle Ranch are all flavors that you can get wrapped up in the warm flour tortillas served till 3 or 4 in the morning... every morning. This place has a cult following of drunken students, so be careful late night!

Stephens, Salaam, and Zoe:

These places are fancy enough to take your mom’s boyfriends daughter! Salaam offers Middle Eastern cuisine and a friendly BYOB attitude, quality food for sure. Zoe has a unique style that you may not find anywhere else and laid back, family style fine dining. Stephens is American fine dining at its greatest feel free to BYOB here, too!

Notable Entries:

The Pub: Get a pub burger and fries on Court Street!

Burrito Buggy: The name says it all. This buggy can be found on the corner of Court and Union

The Oak Room: Great place to have dinner and brews! Located off Union Street.

Star of India: Amazing Native American food, located on Union Street.

Greater Athens Area:

Purple Chopsticks:

Have you ever wanted to eat in an art gallery? Purple Chopsticks offers up some delicious Thai food and you get to eat it in a beautifully decorated atmosphere (http://www.passionworks.org/). If you have the time and love hitting a gong, you should find your way to Purple Chopsticks. Again, BYOB friendly with a drive thru/carryout across the street. Sunday brunch is not to be missed! From Court Street head South on Richland Avenue until you cross the Hocking River, then start looking for the restaurant on the right.

Jana’s Soul Food Cafe:

Jana can cook! She hooks it up with down home American cookin’ that makes your mouth water. Breakfast is incredible and so are the sandwiches and entrees. Do yourself a favor and head down there. Jana’s boasts outdoor seating, a beautiful country setting and easy access from the bike path and BYOB friendly. On 33 west from Athens take the Johnson Road exit left, then take the first left down into Historic Eclipse Company Town. Or from the bike path, head about 1.5 miles west from town until you come to the Eclipse intersection.

So here it is, an opinionated sample of the dining in Athens, Ohio. You can get the comprehensive selection here, but for what it’s worth: These are my favorites! Come on down and climb till your fingers bleed, then eat, drink and take in all the charm that Athens has to offer.

Emerald Boulder

2009-10-21T14:58:00.000-07:00

Emerald Boulder

Approach:

This boulder is located to the right hand side of the trail as you head from COAD boulders back toward the trailer park. It sits about 100ft off the trail just out of sight. You can use the lone car size boulder(pictured above) along the way as a reference point. It is down the hill from it, just over the shelf. Problems are listed from left to right as the trail approaches the boulder.

Parking: Same parking area as the "Trailer Park". Park at the white barn(Dance Studio) parking area off of East State street, located behind the Ohio University credit union. This is the start of the "Cucumbertree Connector" trail. If it is ful,l park in the Wal-mart parking lot an walk over.

Routes:

V0 Warm Up: SUS. This is the farthest left line on the face.
V2+ Snake Eye: SUS. This line is 8 ft to the right of the left arête. Find the tricky feet and use the slopey pockets to go straigt to the top.
V5 Discombobulation: SUS. This is the right most line before it starts to scoop right. Use the pockets and high gaston to avoid be discombobulated. A SDS starts under the "Emerald" and traverse left up the rail and into the stand of Discombulation. Pedestal is off! V6ish
V5 Crystal Shard: SUS. Located between the face problems and the arête is a scooped area. Stand start on under clings above the honey comb choss and climb up through blank face to gain the “shards” of iron then to the top. A sit down start is located under arête, same as the emerald. Traverse the sloper rail to gain the underclins. V7
V5 The Emerald: SDS. Climb the most prominent arête to the top and battle for the jewel.
V4 Barbs: This is the last most arête on the rock. SDS and power through the moves to stellar topout. Watch out for the barb wire if you fall.

Printable PDF

Over View map and more photos to come soon.

Local Ethics and Etiquette

2009-10-20T19:55:00.000-07:00

Ethics the rules of conduct recognized in respect to a particular class of human actions or a particular group, culture, etc.: medical ethics; Christian ethics; climbing ethics.

Etiquette the code of ethical behavior regarding professional practice or action among the members of a profession in their dealings with each other: medical etiquette; climbing etiquette.

Local Ethics

Clean, Climb, Protect!!

Chiseling/Chipping: Don’t! Don’t even think about it. The bottom line is to leave the rock alone. Leave it for the next generation of strong climbers coming up through the ranks.
Cleaning: You have to be able to see and feel the holds. Don’t go crazy and clean until you make a lager hold.( It is sand stone) Brush off the dirt on only the areas that you will use to climb. (Plastic Brushes are the way, don't use metal brushes)
Aspire to climb without leaving a trace: Watch pad placements, avoid covering vegetation. Limit chalk use, minimize tick marks and brush it away after.
Dispose of human waste properly: See Leave No Trace website for more details.
Use Existing Trails: Stay on established trails, most of the trails lie on public land. However a few land owners have been gracious enough to allow users to cross over thier land. Don't use short cut trails and don't make our own
Park in Designated Areas : Parking is a precious commodity at a few of the areas. If the designated spots are full, go else where. Don't park in the grass, it could be some ones yard.
Maintain a Low Profile: Try not to scream and yell, avoid profanity and keep the radios at home. Most of these climbing areas are used by more then climbers, maybe their outside for the serenity, respect the other land users.
Respect Private Property: Some areas are adjacent to private property, be respectful of their land and wishes. Their opinions of climbers can affect future use, always keep them happy.

If you have questions about our local ethics leave us a comment

So you think you can climb V5?

2009-09-05T19:27:00.000-07:00

So, a few of these problems might be rated below or above v5, but if you want to call yourself an Athens County V5er you should be able to make pretty short work of this list.

Birds Nest,Trailer Park, Commitment Area

Tarzan, Trailer Park, Commitment Area

Break Down, Trailer Park, Breakdown Cave Area

Pot O Gold, COAD Boulders, Warm Up Wall

Charlie Horse, Trailer Park, Spirit Area

Tug Time, COAD Boulders, Lower Central Area

Barb Wire, COAD Boulders, Emerald Boulder

Emerald Arete, COAD Boulders, Emerald Boulder

Discombobultion, COAD Boulders, Emerald Boulder

To Small for Paws, COAD Boulders, Upper Wall

Dihedral, COAD Boulders, Upper Wall

The Nomad(Nose Right), COAD Boulders,

Death Arete, Stoud's Run - Beach, Death Arete Area

Drew's Arete, Witches, Warmup Boulder

Let me know if you have any other problems that you think qualify for this list.

Trailer for Rocky Mountain Highball

2009-04-09T20:34:00.000-07:00

I know that this is not about Athens, but check out this trailer.

Rocky Mountain Highball Trailer from ClimbingNarc.com on Vimeo.

Land of The Superhero's

2009-03-27T15:54:00.000-07:00

West Virginia University Bouldering Comp

2009-01-27T15:04:00.000-08:00

WVU is hosting a Bouldering Competition this weekend. Saturday January 31st. Hocking College Outdoor Pursuits is taking a group there if anyone is interested.

See their blog for more details.

Bouldering Comp at the Solution

2009-01-20T20:14:00.000-08:00

Solution Rock Gym is hosting a small bouldering comp this weekend. Check out their blog for details.

Solution's Blog

Artic Comes to Ohio

2009-01-18T08:42:00.000-08:00

Just as the picture states it is cold here. Official word from the government is that the Artic Circle packed its bags and moved to Ohio. That being said we haven't been climbing much. Hopefully the weather improves so we can get back outside.

In the meantime everyone has sought shelter from the storms and training for the local comps. There will be three comps at Solution Rock Gym alone, a series. Then one at Hocking College and one at Ohio University. It should be interesting to see who wins the Athens county tri-fecta.

Well until the temps return.

So, You think you can climb V3

2009-01-01T17:19:00.001-08:00

A selection of problems to test your meld on!

Font Arete, Trailer Park, Font Area

Prostate, Trailer Park, Font Area

The Mantle, Trailer Park, Commitment Area

Elephant Ear,Trailer Park, Commitment Area

Mussels from Brussels, Trailer Park, Ravine Area

Witches Traverse, Witches Hill, Front Area

Witches Backside, Witches Hill, Front Area

Commitment Sit, Trailer Park, Commitment Area

Fifty Grit, Witches Hill, Front Area

Finger Crack, Witches Hill, Back Area

Hand Job, Trailer Park, Mall Boulders

Key Hole Arete, Witches Hill, Font Area

Snake Eyes, COAD Boulders, Emerald Boulder

Deforestation,COAD Boulders Emerald Boulder

Let me know if you have questions on the where about of any of these lines, I will gladly share directions.

So. Your ready to take your game outside?

2008-12-17T16:00:00.000-08:00

So, you want to be able to transition to the real rock of Athens County? What are the best beginner problems you ask? Where should I go?

Commitment Stand - Trailer Park, Commitment Area.

Beginners Traverse(aka Tilted Trailer) - Trailer Park, Ravine Boulders.

Broken Holds McGee - Trailer Park, Font Area.

Supper Happy Fun Arete, Trailer Park, Upper Tier.

Lip of the Silhouette Cave- Trailer Park, Cave Area

Shinbuster- COAD, Warm Up Wall.

Dark Dirty Hole, COAD, Warm Up Wall

Fire in the Hole, COAD, Upper Tier

Many Slabs at COAD

Let me know if their are any problems you think are great beginner problems.

Stay Tuned for our next segment, "You think you can climb V3."

Which Is? Traverse - Spoof

2008-12-03T20:21:00.000-08:00

Athens Bouldering Video

2008-11-19T12:13:00.000-08:00

Just found this, a documentary video about climbing/bouldering in Athens. It was put together by Nick Kalisz for a school project, and looks pretty good.

Bouldering Athens from Nick Kalisz on Vimeo.

P.s. "Its like as close to flying as I have ever come.....without flying" might be my new favorite quote.

A Long Time - Part 1

2008-10-15T19:10:00.000-07:00

So it's 21 degrees in Athens right now, and Brian is playing Contra III and complaining about the lack of blogging. So I thought I would start off things with some photos of a new Athens county line. These photos are of the "Superman Slab" on the Superman boulder in the "Heroes" area of Wayne National Forest. This boulder is freestanding and about the size of a house, checking in at about 30ft tall at it tallest point. One of the sides host a slab, home to this amazing line, props to BC on finding this stellar bloc. So far only 4 of the 15 or so lines have seen sends, but hopefully cool temps will help this dielima. If you get a chance to visit this new classic, don't pass it up.

Tim O. on the "SuperMan Slab"

Until part 2

A COAD Double Feature

2008-02-23T17:27:00.000-08:00

Well I figured out a little more of the video editing, so here is some action from this summer. Let me know what you think so I can make the future installments better.

A Hocking Hills Highline

2008-02-19T19:46:00.000-08:00

Last spring Levi(aka: Levi Tate, The Levitater, Mr. Evil) came to town to visit friends, family and possibly climb. He came during an amazing week of weather that allowed us hit the local Athens bouldering by day and paint the town red by night. We also managed to travel to the new for some bouldering, helping the crew dial in some problems before the rendezvous. While we were sitting around afterwards he mentioned that he was interested in setting up a highline at one of our only local crags( if you can call it that).

We decided that we would head out the next morning a set up a line at the Hocking Hills climbing and rappelling area. We planned to set it up on the gap between the "Rectangle Block" and the adjacent cliff, over the trail. It was about a 25ft gap and close to 40 ft to the deck, not to bad for our first highline. Being that this would be our first time setting a highline, we decided to not screw around and carried a ton of gear into the woods. However, two expeditions packs full might have been too much.

It took us about an hour to figure out what we need to set up the line. If you look at the photos you will see that we were pretty redundant. The core rig of our set up was the "slackline brothers" tension system, fully backed up. Our line was double threaded to make it both stiffer and stronger. The whole system was back up with a dynamic line that was ran under the line and taped to it.

The plan from the very beginning was for Levi to walk the line and if I was feeling up to it, I said I would give it a try, however my fear of heights said "NO". I will have to say it was pretty coll to see Levi on the line.

Check out the rest of the photos and the video below.

Bird's Nest Slide Show

2008-02-16T08:29:00.000-08:00

I know I said I would have a video footage of a highline in Hocking Hills, but I am have some technical issues to workout. In the meantime I have put together small slide show of one of the most classic lines in all of Southern Ohio.

I in the meantime will try to sort out my video issues.

Stay tuned.

The Hocking Hills Climbing and Rappelling Area

2008-01-30T20:21:00.000-08:00

So it might be outside of Athens county, but we will be considering part of the Athens scene. The Hocking Hills Climbing and Rappelling area is located in the Hocking Hills region of Ohio, in Hocking County, in the Hocking Hills State Forest on a 99 acre tract of land, next to the Hocking Hills State Park.
This area has a plethora of rock, of which a small fraction is hard enough to support climbs and of that, a smaller fraction of actuals climbs. But of that small fraction of climbs there are a few good lines. The area is great for taking beginners and learning how to set up top ropes, it is a great outdoor class room.
The problems range from easy to moderate with a couple hard lines, but the potential for hard sends are there. Below is some more raw video of Dan and I playing around on the area test piece "Six Crack". Enjoy!

Six Crack Video

Stay tuned for a clip of Mr. Evil(aka the Levitator) on a high line in Hocking Hills.

Some sends that went down last spring.

2008-01-29T18:42:00.000-08:00

Last spring we spent several weeks cleaning and developing a new area in Athens County. This new area holds a large quantity of rock with the possibility of some amazing lines. Here is some raw video of the first ascent of "Domesticated Man" maybe v6/v7. As you can see from the video it is bulge that is common to the area. The area also contains a wide varieties of rock climbing styles, low to high, easy to hard, and from tame to scary as hell. Access is currently an issue, so once it is resolved we will spread the word.

above: "Domesticated Man"

above: "Domesticated Man"

Stay tuned for some footage of the Hocking Hills test piece "Six Crack"

The Trailer Park... Choss or Paradise

2008-01-19T11:41:00.000-08:00

The Trailer Park boulders, the infamous Athens hot spot! It holds some of the best problems in all of Southeastern Ohio, actually I would call them the best in all of the state. A few of these problems are so good, that they would be classics where ever you put them.

But just like all good climbing areas, it has taken time and energy to develop. There have been those individuals over the years that have walked the hills before there were trails, they, the hunters, on the constant search for a new rock, a new line, a first ascent, however the first ascents in Athens County don't come easy. Unlike areas in other destinations where one can walk up, jump on a unclimbed face and grab a send. We the few "scrubbers", battle the very forces of mother nature, to tame the line. We remove ages of dirt and loose rock to find the beauty beneath, with every speck of dust removed, to allow for an attempt at what the rock holds sacred, it first ascent.

After a scrub, with a rock that is clean, it still takes a climber that is willing to try and crack the beta. The beta on a challenging problem is not given easily, add height and a hard crux and it could be years before that problems sees a send. That is the draw that keeps many of us on the prow for the next boulder in Athens.

With that being said, you will have to take the time to thank those before you, as you pull on the sandstone of the Trailer Park. Cause they were the ones that cleared away most of the choss in Athens, making your future climbs a little more enjoyable. Still be aware of the occasional hold that may break.

Now for a few pieces of eye candy that will make you want to pull down on this same Ohio sandstone.

above: Tom on the "Font Arete"

above: Tim on "Tarzan"

Above: Dan on Mall Boulder classic "Deforestation"

Above: Dan on the tall and slimper test piece "Charlie Horse"

Above: Dan on the infamous Athens Classic "Bird's Nest"

Witches Hill is the Place to Be...

2008-01-12T09:28:00.000-08:00

...When the weather is bad and you need to get a fix. Witches is usually the first area to dry out due to its location in Athens. Sitting atop of "Witches Hill", next to state route 33, it is exposed to the sun and with a slight breeze you can usually climb there the next day following a storm. Just be prepared for the muddy and steep approach to the bouldering.

Another nice feature to the climbing at Witches, is that most of the problems are in the easy to moderate range with great landings, allowing for a great circuit. Don't let this turn you away if you think your a crusher, there are still stout lines and projects to be had.

Now for five reasons to climb at Witches.....

One of the many faces of Stroup.

Long view of the front upper section.

Trey on Drew's Arete

Victor on the "Leaper"

Stroup going for the dyno version of "Double Down".

Stay tuned for some more action from Athens.